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BMP
Best Management Practices for Landscape
Fertilizer Use on Nantucket Island
Prepared by The Article 68 Work Group
20102011
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The Article 68 Work Group, whose members are listed below, would like to
acknowledge the support and encouragement that they received from the Nantucket
Board of Selectmen and administrative staff.
The Work Group received technical support from a number of people, each of
whom was important to the successful production of this BMP: David Fronzuto and
Richard Ray on the status of Nantucket’s waters; Dr. Scott Ebdon and Mary Owen from
the University of Massachusetts, Amherst, on the development of a turfgrass BMP and
for their review of our BMP; Dr. Ernest Steinauer for his review and interpretation of the
pertinent scientific articles about nutrient leaching as it relates to fertilizer practices.
We thank the guests who attended our BMP subgroup meetings and entered freely
into the discussions, often providing us with valuable information drawn from their own
experiences, and participated in writing or editing parts of this BMP. Special thanks to
Julie Jordin, Dylan Wallace, and Jonathan Wisentaner, who all contributed their time and
expertise. Contributors to the BMP from the Article 68 Work Group include: Cormac
Collier, Mark Lucas, Michael Misurelli, Lee Saperstein, Ernie Steinauer, and Lucinda
Young. External reviewers gave freely of their time and expertise; they have ensured the
scientific foundation of our recommendations.
Cornell University, Department of Horticulture
o A. Martin Petrovic, PhD;
North Country Organics
o Paul Sachs;
Pace Turf
o Larry Stowell, PhD;
University of Connecticut, Department of Plant Science and Landscape
Architecture
o Thomas Morris, PhD,
o Karl Guillard, PhD,
o Jason Henderson, PhD,
o Steven Rackliffe,
o John Inguagiato, PhD;
University of Massachusetts
o J. Scott Ebdon, PhD, Turfgrass Management, Stockbridge School of
Agriculture,
o Mary Owen, UMass Extension; Extension Turf Specialist & Turf Program
Coordinator.
Members of the Article 68 Work Group:
Lucinda Young, Chair
Peter Boyce, Vice Chair
Lee Saperstein, Secretary
Cormac Collier
Caroline Ellis
David Fronzuto
Bam LaFarge
Mark Lucas
Wendy McCrae
Michael Misurelli
Richard Ray
Seth Rutherford
Ernie Steinauer
Jim Sutherland, Administrative
Assistant
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BEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES FOR LANDSCAPE FERTILIZER USE ON
NANTUCKET ISLAND
Table of Contents
Acknowledgements ii
Table of Contents iii
List of Figures v.
List of Tables v.
Preface vi.
Section 1. Introduction 1.
Section 2. Nitrogen and Phosphorus and the Influence of Nantucket’s Climate 4.
Nitrogen and Phosphorus Uptake by Plants 4.
Organic vs. Synthetic 5.
Influence of Nantucket’s Climate on Nutrient Uptake and
Utilization 6.
Section 2. Bibliography 7.
Section 3. Site Assessment and Planning 9.
Identifying Site Conditions 9.
Site Planning for New Construction 10.
Site Assessment for Existing Managed Landscapes 11.
Section 3. Bibliography 11.
Section 4. Soil Nutrient Analysis: The Importance of the Soil Test 12.
Soil 12.
Nantucket’s Soil 12.
Collecting a Proper Soil Sample 14.
Explanation of a Sample Soil Test Analysis 16.
Applying the Soil Test Fertility Guidelines to Correct Deficiencies. 17.
Section 4. Bibliography 18.
Section 5. Building the Soil 19.
The Role of Compost 19.
Organic Matter (OM) Soil Content 20.
Applying Compost 21.
Compost Tea 22.
Conclusion 22.
Section 5. Bibliography 23.
Section 6. Fertilizer Types and Sources 24.
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Interpreting Nutrient Ratios on a Typical Label 24.
Sources and Types of Nitrogen Fertilizers 27.
Sources and Types of Phosphorus Fertilizers 28.
Sources and Types of Potassium Fertilizers 28.
Section 6. Bibliography 28.
Section 7. Turfgrass Selection: Mixes and Blends 30.
Turfgrass Mix and Blend Recommendations for Nantucket 31.
Source Material 32.
Section 8. Fertilizer Application Timing and Rate Guidelines 33.
Timing 33.
Application Rates 35.
Applying Compost as a Fertilizer 36.
Foliar Fertilizer 40.
Fertilizer Calculations and Spreader Calibration 41.
The Weather Factor: Avoiding Heavy Rainfall 41.
Special Care and Clean Up 42.
Record Keeping 42.
Examples of Three Turf Fertilizer Management Programs 43.
Source Material 43.
Section 9. Turfgrass Establishment and Renovation Guidelines 44.
Establishing a Lawn From Seed 44.
Establishing a Lawn with Sod 46.
Renovating an Existing Lawn 47.
Section 9. Bibliography 48.
Section 10. Turf Care Cultural Practices 49.
Mowing 49.
Recycling Clippings 50.
Core Aeration 50.
De-thatching/Verticutting 50.
Topdressing 51.
Spiking/Slicing 51.
Section 10. Bibliography 51.
Section 11. Fertility Guidelines for Perennial Gardens, Ornamental Trees
and Shrubs 52.
Perennial Gardens and Mixed Borders 52.
Ornamental Trees and Shrubs 53.
Section 11. Bibliography 53.
Section 12. The Role of Irrigation 55.
System Design 55.
System Monitoring 55.
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Source Material 56.
Section 13. Alternative Naturalistic Style Practices 57.
Native Plants 57.
Naturalized Plant Communities 58.
Tall Grass Meadows 59.
Using Native Trees and Shrubs 59.
Section 13. Bibliography 60.
Appendices 61.
1. Soil Maps 61.
2. Recommended Soil Testing Laboratories 63.
3. Sources and Types of Fertilizer 64.
3. A. 1. Fast-Release Nitrogen Fertilizer 64.
3. A. 2. Slow-Release Nitrogen Fertilizers 64.
3. B. Phosphorus Fertilizer 68.
3. C. Potassium Fertilizer 69.
4. Turfgrass Varieties and Cultivars Suitable for Nantucket 71.
5. Spreader Calibration 74.
6. A sample fertilizer record keeping sheet 76.
7. Examples of Three Turf Management Fertilization Programs 77.
8. List of Common Documents 80.
List of Figures
Figure 1. A soil map of the lands around Milestone Cranberry Bog,
Nantucket 13.
Figure 2. A Sample Soil-Test Analysis for a Nantucket soil. 15.
Figure 3. A Sample Fertilizer Label Analysis. 25.
Figure 4. A Fertilizer Label including Non-Plant Food Ingredients. 25.
List of Tables
Table 1. Table of Fertilizer Application Guidance for Turf Grass 35.
Table 2. Nitrogen and Phosphorus Content of Selected Composts, Percentage 37.
Table 3. Nitrogen Availability from Various Compost Application Rates 38.
Table 4. Phosphorus availability from various compost application rates 39
Table 5. Nantucket Native Shrubs and Trees 59.
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Preface
The following Best Management Practices Plan (BMP) is broken down into
sections that contain comprehensive information on soil fertility and landscape fertilizer
use on Nantucket. Sections were drafted by members of the Article 68 Work Group and
by landscape professionals of diverse backgrounds and levels of education, expertise and
experience.
As I read through this document, it strikes me over and over how closely
interrelated each aspect of turf and plant dynamics is to soil chemistry, climate, and
cultural practices.
Reading through the BMP, one section at a time, can be compared to looking at or
studying individual trees one by one in the forest. It’s important not to lose sight of the
forest, as a whole, but also not to over simplify complex science. The ‘forest’ in this case
can be considered not only an individual lawn or garden landscape, but in fact, the whole
island.
The BMP attempts to explain the complex science of plant and soil dynamics in
terms that are accessible to landscape professionals as well as interested homeowners. It
reminds us that all is interrelated: climate, water and nutrient cycles, turf, gardens, soil,
groundwater, and our ponds, wetlands, and harbors.
With the risk of getting lost in ‘the forest’ of the BMP, the following is a
summary of key factors that influence correct rates and timing of fertilizer applications
to Nantucket’s man-made landscapes.
1- The importance of a soil test in determining and correcting soil pH, nutrient
deficiencies, and the amount of organic matter content.
2- Climate: Fertilizers applied to turf or plants when soil temperature is below 55
degrees F are not readily assimilated by plants, and are thus likely to end up in our
harbors or ponds, or groundwater, threatening aquatic and human health.
3- The importance of organic matter content in soils and how that influences nutrient
availability and ‘builds’ healthy soil.
4- The role of mowing height, not less than 2 inches, and frequency, the one-third
rule, in promoting and maintaining healthy turf.
5- The importance of returning clippings to recycle nutrients and increase soil
organic matter content.
6- The no-fertilizer option; i.e. natural landscapes where growth is in equilibrium
with nutrients from fallen vegetation.
If everyone who applies fertilizers to turf or garden plants on Nantucket applies
the information in this BMP to their practices, the threat of landscape-related fertilizers
entering ground water, ponds and our harbors should be significantly reduced.
Lucinda Young, Chair, Article 68 Work Group
Section 1
Introduction
The purpose of this Best Management Practices Plan (BMP) for Nantucket is to
provide science-based fertilizer guidelines and other landscape practices, that, when
followed, reduce the loss of soil nutrients from excessive, incorrectly timed, and
inappropriate fertilizers. On Nantucket, lost nutrients find their way rapidly to the waters,
harbors, ponds, and streams where they may cause contamination that is harmful to
aquatic organisms as well as human health and welfare.
Objectives of this BMP are:
To provide landscape professionals and homeowners information for making
environmentally sound landscaping decisions that take Nantucket’s unique
conditions and natural resources into consideration;
To promote the protection of water resources while maintaining healthy and
vibrant ornamental landscapes;
To reduce the amount of fertilizer use by promoting cultural practices that help
build a healthy soil ecosystem;
To offer site planning guidelines and ecological restoration suggestions that help
reduce the total area, island-wide, of fertilizer-dependent landscapes; and
To provide guidance for routine fertilizer maintenance of lawns and gardens on
Nantucket.
In 2010, the Nantucket Annual Town Meeting authorized the Board of Selectmen
(BOS) to introduce legislation to the Massachusetts State Legislature through the Home-
Rule Petition (HRP) process to regulate the use of fertilizers in the Town and County of
Nantucket. To assist in the process, the BOS appointed the Article 68 Work Group (WG)
comprised of representatives from interested groups and communities. The WG was
charged to recommend constructive changes in perfecting the language of the proposed
HRP legislation and to develop a comprehensive plan to reduce the amount of nitrogen
and phosphorus contributed by landscape fertilizers in our waters. The WG concluded
that, as the basis of its recommendations, it would create a Best Management Practices
Plan (BMP) specific to Nantucket’s climate and soil conditions as an educational
document that incorporates the latest turf and soil science for safer and more effective
landscape fertilizer management on Nantucket. The principles contained in the BMP
would provide a foundation for the regulatory package developed for the HRP and for
any subsequent use by Nantucket’s Board of Health.
Nantucket’s glacial soils are dominated by deep sands and gravels with low
organic-matter content. These soils readily allow water to infiltrate and are particularly
prone to leaching of fertilizer and other pollutants. Leaching is the loss of nutrient from
the soil by water-based dissolution and transport. Nitrogen that reaches our waters comes
from a variety of sources. Although the largest percentage comes from atmospheric
deposition of combustion-caused nitrates (automobile and power-plant exhaust), other
human-related land uses contribute a significant amount. Exact percentages are near
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impossible to measure, but among the major nitrogen contributors from land-based uses,
are septic systems, road and roof runoff, and excess or inappropriately applied fertilizers
from both agricultural and landscape practices. A small percentage comes from the
excreta of wildlife. Nutrient leaching from improper fertilizer use is one of the
controllable contributing factors to the degradation of our groundwater and surface water
bodies. Contamination of the island’s aquifer and wetlands threatens our fisheries and
tourism industries, and ultimately public health. The control of fertilizer application,
along with well-understood controls on septic and sewer systems, will help reduce the
degradation of the critical resources of Nantucket’s waters.
In recent decades, Nantucket has experienced significant land development
resulting in increased nitrogen inputs from land-based uses including many high
maintenance lawns and gardens that are fertilized regularly. Continued development of
the island and increases in atmospheric deposition further threaten our water resources
and demonstrate the need for increased awareness of landscape choices and practices that
reduce both nitrogen and phosphorus inputs without sacrificing the appeal of well
maintained landscapes or the health of our water resources.
Nantucket Island has abundant freshwater and saltwater resources. Nitrogen is
the limiting nutrient for saltwater and some freshwater systems while phosphorus is most
often the limiting nutrient for freshwater systems. Excessive concentrations of nitrogen in
saltwater and phosphorus in freshwater will facilitate algae blooms and various levels of
eutrophication. These algal blooms can be toxic to marine life and, in some cases, to
humans, pets, and livestock.
The Work Group assigned a subgroup consisting of professional island
landscapers, the Nantucket Golf Club golf course manager, an irrigation specialist, and
the director of the Nantucket Land Council, to review the “2003 BMP for Turf, Tree and
Shrub Fertilization on Nantucket Island”, an earlier document produced by the Nantucket
Landscape Association, and to make recommendations for updating and improving it.
This resulting document incorporates and expands upon much of the previous Nantucket-
based material with added guidelines from a number of other relevant sources. The
recommendations and guidelines presented in this document reflect the experience and
knowledge of Nantucket landscape professionals and have been peer reviewed by turf
and soil scientists. These reviewers are identified and thanked in the list of
Acknowledgements; they voluntarily gave invaluable service to Nantucket and we are in
their debt.
It is estimated that approximately 10 to 19 percent of the nitrogen applied to turf
on Cape Cod soils, similar to Nantucket’s, eventually leaches into groundwater (Petrovic,
2008, Horsely Witten Group, 2009). It is likely that nitrogen loss rates may be higher for
ornamental plantings compared with turf (Cisar et al., 2003, Erickson et al., 2001).
Leachate that reaches subsurface ground water can percolate downward to contaminate
aquifers, which are Nantucket’s sole source of fresh water, or eventually discharge into
receiving wetlands including Nantucket and Madaket Harbors, the great ponds, and the
many smaller wetlands found throughout the island.
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This BMP is the educational document that provides Nantucket landscape
professionals and interested homeowners with the information necessary for effective turf
and garden fertilizer management; nonetheless it has the larger aim of protecting our
unique water resources. It is derived from documents gathered by other entities
interested in managing fertilizer applications, from newly written guidance documents for
turfgrass management, from standard textbooks on soil and turf science, from the
enormous library of information available from the Natural Resources Conservation
Service of the U. S. Department of Agriculture (www.nrcs.usda.gov), from the deep
reservoir of experience held by members of the Article 68 Work Group, and from
members of the scientific and academic communities who gave freely of their knowledge
when reviewing this work. Reference lists are maintained for each Section and a
bibliography of important works is at the back of this document.
Section 1. Bibliography
Nantucket Landscape Association. 2003 BMP for Turf, Tree, and Shrub
Fertilization on Nantucket Island.
Petrovic, A. Martin. 2008. Report to the Pleasant Bay Alliance on the Turfgrass
Fertilizer Nitrogen Leaching Rate.
Horsley Witten Group. Evaluation of Turfgrass Nitrogen Leaching Rates. Date?,
Masachusetts Department of Environmental Protection.
Cisar, J.L., J.E.Erickson, G.H. Snyder, J.J. Haydu, and J.C. Volin. 2003.
Documenting nitrogen leaching and runoff losses from urban landscapes. Pp. 161-
179 in: ACS Symposium Series, Vol. 872, Environmental Impact of Fertilizer in
Soil and Water. American Chemical Society.
Erickson, J. E., J. L. Cisar, J. C. Volin, and G. Snyder. 2001. Comparing nitrogen
run off and leaching between newly established St. Augustine grass turf and an
alternative residential landscape. Crop Science 41:1889-1895.
United States Department of Agriculture, Natural Resources Conservation
Service, various reports including those in the Field Office Technical Guide and
the Web Soil Survey (www.nrcs.usda.gov).
United States Environmental Protection Administration, Water: Nutrients
(http://water.epa.gov/scitech/swguidance/standards/criteria/nutrients/basic.cfm).
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Section 2
Nitrogen and Phosphorus and Plant Growth
Nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P) are two essential elements required for plant growth.
Native Nantucket soils are generally low in N but may contain an adequate amount of P.
A soil-test analysis should be used to determine if fertilizer application is necessary to
supplement P and add organic matter in intensively managed turf or ornamental plantings.
Testing only gives a snapshot of available nitrogen and is not a reliable way to assess N need.
The advantages and disadvantages of slow-release and quick-release fertilizers are discussed.
The advantages and disadvantages of synthetic and organic fertilizers are discussed.
Fertilizer should only be applied during periods of active plant growth to insure efficient
uptake by target species and to reduce the potential for runoff and leaching into aquatic
resources. Soil temperatures should be above 55o F and adequate moisture should be present
when applying fertilizer.
Turf-growth potential models based on historic temperature, precipitation data, and plant
growth characteristics can be used as an aid to design effective and efficient fertilizer
application programs. A sample model is presented (appendix) that was developed using
climate data collected at the Nantucket airport.
How and when nitrogen, N, and phosphorus, P, are available to and utilized by
plants is fundamental to determining when and at what rates to apply these two nutrients
for optimum turf and plant growth. The timing of fertilizer applications and climate are
directly connected. Nantucket’s soil conditions and seasonal weather are key factors for
planning annual fertilizer applications to ensure that fertilizer practices will not harm the
island’s water resources. This section explains the connection of these two important
nutrients to Nantucket’s seasonal weather patterns. Ensuring that fertilizers are not
applied too early in the spring or too late in the fall is fundamental to protecting
Nantucket’s harbors, ponds, and groundwater.
Nitrogen and Phosphorus Uptake by Plants
Nitrogen is absorbed by plants in two forms: nitrate (NO₃-) and ammonium
(NH₄+). All sources of nitrogen must eventually be converted to one or both of these
forms to be effectively utilized by plants. This is because plant uptake of nutrients
depends upon water as the carrier. Nutrients that are not in a water-soluble form may be
present but not available to the plant. Elemental nitrogen comprises 79 percent of the
earth’s atmosphere but this form of N is not of concern to water quality. When, however,
it goes through high-temperature processes such as in internal-combustion engines or in
power plants, some of that nitrogen is oxidized to the nitrate form where it is now a
potential contaminant.
Different forms of nitrogen are found in different portions of the nitrogen cycle,
which is a way of describing the fate of nitrogen in and above the earth’s surface.
Organic N is bound up in complex organic molecules. Most organic forms of nitrogen
undergo a process known as mineralization prior to being converted to ammonium and,
ultimately, being converted to nitrate. Nitrogen mineralization is a step in the nitrogen
cycle and is the result of the breakdown of organic matter by soil organisms, allowing
many types of organic forms of nitrogen to be slowly released over time. Quickly
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available nitrogen, whether synthetic or organic, when applied at excessive rates, can be
easily leached from sandy soil. Using organic products that have to go through
mineralization or slow-release synthetic products that delay N release can spread the
release of nitrogen over a period of time, thereby giving plants a sufficient period to
absorb it. Correct application of any nitrogen-containing fertilizer is necessary to prevent
overloading the soil and the subsequent leaching, or loss, of this excess.
Phosphorus is essential for plant growth and survival, and is vital for seed
germination. A soil test to determine how much phosphorus exists in the soil is
mandatory before deciding if any needs to be applied. Not all phosphorus in the soil,
however, is available for plant uptake; therefore keeping the soil pH between 6 and 7 will
usually help to keep phosphorus available. There are two different procedures for testing
phosphorus in soil, the Morgan and the Mehlich III Extracting Solutions. Unfortunately,
they lead to very different measurements in the same soil sample. Care should be taken
to note which method is used by the soil testing laboratory and to continue to use the
same test for subsequent samples.
When available, plants take up phosphate through their roots. The larger and
more expansive the root system, the more efficiently the plant takes up phosphorus in the
soil. Newly established lawns, because they have limited root systems, may require
readily available phosphorus to promote root growth and healthy seedling development.
Once a new lawn is established, phosphorus should be applied only as needed.
Being mindful of phosphorus application is very important, especially on
Nantucket, because it is the limiting nutrient in fresh water ponds, most of which are
located down gradient of both ground and surface water movement. Nantucket’s soils
may test naturally high in phosphorus, so it is crucial to perform a soil analysis before
applying additional phosphorus to the soil.
Organic vs. Synthetic
The terms organic and synthetic, commonly used to describe types of fertilizer,
can be somewhat misleading or misinterpreted. This is because these terms do not
explain the availability of the nitrogen to plants. A different way to describe fertilizer
types, especially in terms of leaching potential, is found in the terms fast-release or water-
soluble, and slow-release, which includes water-insoluble and coated fast-release
materials.
Nitrogen and phosphorus come from both organic and synthetic sources. Once
nitrogen is in a form (nitrate or ammonium) that can be taken up by the plant, there is no
difference to the plant between organically or synthetically derived nitrogen. How and
when those usable forms of nitrogen become available to the plant is, however,
important. Not all organic compounds are truly slow release, and not all synthetic slow-
release products are created equal. A detailed description of organic and synthetic
sources of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is included in Section 6. “Fertilizer Types
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and Sources,” and its associated appendix. For the purposes of this BMP, mined or
“rock” phosphate is grouped with the synthetic sources of phosphorus.
It is now worthwhile to point out both major and subtle differences between the
two styles of fertilizer management: organic-based, or synthetic-based. During the
nitrogen cycle, most, but not all, organic fertilizers go through the step in the nitrogen
cycle called mineralization, a step that inorganic water soluble sources do not take.
However, urea, and sources of synthetic slow-release products that use urea as a base go
through mineralization as well. For urea, mineralization can be very fast. For some of
the slow-release fertilizers using urea as a base, mineralization can be very slow.
Mineralization helps many organic fertilizers to slow their release of nitrogen. Some
synthetic slow-release fertilizers can match the slow-release characteristics of organic
products. Nearly all organic sources of nitrogen contain carbon, some more than others
and carbon is essential to the health of a soil. Although some synthetic fertilizers,
specifically those containing urea, contain carbon, the actual amount is very low.
Organic fertilizers may also contain biostimulants, vitamins, naturally-derived
micronutrients, and beneficial bacteria, all of which may contribute to healthy soils and
turfgrass
The best technologically advanced slow-release synthetic fertilizers can
accurately control the release of nitrogen primarily through variations in soil temperature
and moisture. Synthetic fertilizer that contains no phosphorus is readily available. It is
important to note that the majority of organic fertilizers contain phosphorus in addition to
nitrogen. It is important not to add phosphorus to a soil that does not need it. In such
cases, an organic fertilizer should be used that does not contain, or contains very little,
phosphorus.
Slow-release nitrogen sources, whether they are organic or synthetic, that are
applied at typical rates year after year, can have adverse effects. This slow-release
nitrogen can build up in the soils faster than they can be used by the plant. Over a 10-25
year period, the soil can become “saturated’” with this unused nitrogen, and may leach
from the soil
Influence of Nantucket’s Climate on Nutrient Uptake and Utilization
Nantucket’s climate is unique when compared to other communities in the
northeast. Because of the surrounding ocean, Nantucket stays cooler later into the spring,
relatively cooler than the mainland in the summer, and stays warmer later into the fall.
Precipitation events are also different in that the moderating temperatures can turn
mainland snow storms to rain on Nantucket; the location of weather fronts – the boundary
between and low and high-pressure zones – also may cause rain or snow storms to bypass
the Island or vice versa. Although areas around Boston, metropolitan New York, and
even Cape Cod can begin to ‘green up’ in March, Nantucket can be a month or two
behind. Local microclimate conditions vary across the island as well. Trees, lawns, and
gardens ‘green up’ earlier in downtown Nantucket, sometimes as much as by several
weeks than in outlying areas: ‘Sconset being a prime example.
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The National Climatic Data Center of NOAA, www.ncdc.noaa.gov, provides a
thorough review of the mean (average) temperatures and precipitation amounts as well as
of extremes of both for Nantucket. In general, the average temperature on Nantucket
does not rise above 55° F until the middle of April and falls below that in early to mid-
October. This temperature is the critical value needed for dormant grass to resume
growth in the spring or for growing grass to become dormant in the fall.
Recommendations made in this BMP for fertilizer application timing are based on these
data.
Precipitation amounts may also affect growth, particularly in times of moisture
deficiency, i.e. drought. Hot, dry conditions such as are found often in July and August,
can substantially retard growth on non-irrigated lawns and gardens. During these periods
on sites that are not irrigated, it is necessary to reduce fertilizer applications to prevent a
build-up of unused fertilizer in the soil.
Professional fertilizer applicators may wish to develop growth-potential curves
for Nantucket that are based on monthly or even daily average temperatures. These
curves suggest the percent of growth against the maximum observed in optimum
conditions. In cooler or drier periods, growth may be substantially less than seen at
warm, moist times. With the growth-potential curves in hand, very specific application
amounts of fertilizer can be set that are based on the plant’s ability to take up the
nutrients. Thus, in the periods of reduced growth, reduced amounts of fertilizer would be
applied. Since these curves are also a function of plant species, e.g. warm-season versus
cool season grasses, a fuller discussion would be too cumbersome for the purposes of this
BMP.
A somewhat more specific analysis of growth versus weather parameters may
also distinguish between sub-surface root growth and above-ground shoot growth. These
two parts of the plant do not necessarily grow at the same rate. This may be particularly
true in the fall, when roots continue to grow even after cooler weather slows shoot
growth. This difference may affect the timing of fertilizer applications.
Section 2. Bibliography
Stowell, L., Climate Appraisal for Nantucket, Turfgrass Growth Potential Graph
for Nantucket, Pace Turf Information Service. San Diego, California. October
2010. Located January, 2011, at URL: http://www.paceturf.org/ .
Dorn, T., Nitrogen Sources, 288-01, University of Nebraska Cooperative
Extension. September 2001. Located January, 2011, at URL:
http://lancaster.unl.edu/ag/factsheets/288.htm .
Mikkelsen, R. and T. K. Hartz, Nitrogen Sources for Organic Crop Production.
Better Crops, Vol. 92, No. 4, 2008. (Same source used as in section 6). Located
January, 2011, at URL:
http://www.ipni.net/ppiweb/bcrops.nsf/$webindex/90DDC9214EC7DB0A852575
0600529B78/$file/BC08-4p16.pdf .
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Barbarick, K. A., Nitrogen Sources and Transformations, no. 0.550, Colorado
State University, Extension Service. January 2006. Located January, 2011, at
URL: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/crops/00550.html .
Sachs, P., Nitrogen (organic vs. inorganic), North Country Organics, Vermont.
No publication date. Located January, 2011, at URL:
http://www.norganics.com/applications/nitrogen.pdf .
The Nitrogen Cycle, by AgSource Harris, a Division of Cooperative Resources
International. No author or date listed. Located January, 2011, at URL:
http://agsource.crinet.com/page2574/TheNitrogenCycle .
Phosphorus in Turfgrasses, a technical bulletin by Harris Laboratories, a division
of AgSource Cooperative Services. No author or date listed. Located January,
2011, at URL: http://agsource.crinet.com/page3043/TechnicalBulletins .
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Section 3
Site Assessment and Planning
Site assessment is a preliminary planning stage in the construction process in which the pre-
existing physical and biological conditions of a site are identified and used as the basis for
developing an environmental site plan that takes best advantage of the existing conditions.
Landscape plans should aim to minimize areas requiring supplemental fertilization and
include undisturbed natural areas when possible.
Site assessment should include the following: determination of building and other
construction envelopes; soil characteristics as determined by soil tests; land forms and
contours; view-sheds; micro climate conditions including winds, temperatures, and sun
exposure (also known as aspect); a plant inventory; and areas of critical environmental
concern including wetlands and rare plant communities or animal populations.
The site plan for new construction should take advantage of existing landforms; minimize
disturbance to lands not slated for development; and conserve topsoil for post construction
landscaping.
Site planning for development on existing landscapes should include identification of all of
the above conditions plus a post-construction, as-built plan delineating location and type of
landscaped areas; irrigation system; other subsurface utilities; a fertilization history; a
history of existing and potential problems; and any owner expectations for change and
improvement.
Site assessment is the identification and recording of existing site conditions that
are used for environmental site planning including how a property will be designed,
developed or renovated, and managed. A commonly used synonym for site conditions is
“features;” environmental site planning may be described also as landscape architecture.
This section addresses site assessment and planning within the context of reduced
fertilizer use and the minimization of resulting detrimental impacts to the environment
from excessive fertilizer application.
Identifying Site Conditions
The following site conditions, i.e. features, form the basis for site planning:
Existing plant communities: including woodlands, shrublands, and grasslands.
Particular attention should be paid to rare (endangered and threatened) plant and
animal populations and to unwanted invasive plants;
Environmentally sensitive areas, also known as lands of critical environmental
concern, such as wetland resources, as determined by the Nantucket Conservation
Commission, and well-recharge zones;
Soil characteristics as obtained from soil maps (USDA Natural Resources
Conservation Service Electronic Soil Survey) and a comprehensive soil test.
Refer to Section 4. “Soil Nutrient Analysis: The importance of the Soil Test” for
detailed information on soil testing;
Land-form contours, i.e. the terrain, including steepness, and how they influence
drainage patterns and variations in microclimate;
Prevailing and storm-related winds; weather history can be obtained from the
National Weather Service (www.nws.noaa.gov);
9
Seasonal patterns of sunlight, i.e. aspect; and
View-sheds are the nearby landscape elements seen from the property; desirable
view sheds are enhanced by low-growth plants whereas undesirable ones are
obscured by higher and thicker privacy plantings.
The Town of Nantucket Web GIS Map Page is a useful resource for identifying
Nantucket site conditions. http://host.appgeo.com/nantucketma/ .
Site Planning for New Construction
Careful site planning can aid in the reduction of fertilizer use and help reduce
related environmental impacts. The following land uses are listed in the order of
increasing fertilizer requirements:
building envelopes: buildings, pavements, and other built structures;
native or naturalized plant communities;
minimally managed lawns;
intensively managed lawns; and
ornamental plantings.
While all these land uses can be included in an environmentally friendly
residential landscape, the inclusion of significant areas of native and naturalized plant
communities and minimally managed lawns can greatly reduce fertilizer use, the need for
irrigation, construction costs, and maintenance costs. The use of native plants in
ornamental plantings also helps to reduce fertilizer use (see Section 13. “Alternative
Naturalistic Style Practices”). Native plant communities make excellent natural screens
between properties. Maintaining native plant communities and using native plants in
ornamental plantings also attracts wildlife such as birds and butterflies and helps to
maintain native biodiversity.
Once site planning is complete, it is important to develop construction protocols
that minimize disturbance to the landscape. Even areas designated for intensively
managed lawns can be damaged by excessive disturbance from heavy equipment or other
construction activities. Driving wheeled equipment on topsoil can compact it to the point
that the soil’s structure never fully recovers after construction and this leads to poor
planting success. Mounding soil around a mature tree deprives its roots of oxygen and
leads, ultimately, to the tree’s death. Work areas can be designated with silt fencing, hay
bales, or other boundary markers.
Soil is inevitably damaged during construction but some practices can help
minimize the damage. Existing vegetation in construction zones should be brush cut and
the resulting debris removed from the site. The A-layer of the topsoil, i.e. that uppermost
portion containing organic matter, should then be rototilled, stripped from the surface,
and stockpiled on site. The depth of the A-layer is easily seen in a small, sample trench,
or by taking a soil plug. On Nantucket, this layer is often thin and even absent. This soil
can them be returned to disturbed areas post construction. Stockpiling of stripped topsoil
10
in windrows helps protect soil organisms but may increase the area damaged by the soil
piles. Planting a cover crop such as winter or annual rye on stockpiled topsoil helps
protect the stored soil, provides habitat for valuable soil organisms, reduces loss to
erosion by wind and water, and reduces weed establishment.
Once construction activities are completed, the stored topsoil can be returned to
the disturbed areas. Air and water movement through the soil profile can be increased by
rototilling a portion of the stored topsoil into the upper subsoil layer before spreading the
remaining topsoil. A soil test of this sub-layer will determine if an application to the
subsoil of fertilizer or other soil amendments is needed to encourage root growth. Plants
with deep and extensive root systems are much more likely to survive periods of drought
than will those with shallow roots. After the final topsoil layer is spread, another soil test
should be conducted to determine if any amendments such as nutrients or organic matter
are needed before the area is seeded or planted.
Site Assessment for Existing Managed Landscapes
Assessment of an existing managed landscape may be made to identify and
correct problem areas when considering renovations, or before changing management
practices. Site assessment for existing managed landscapes starts by identifying the
conditions listed above with the addition of the following.
an as-built landscape plan showing the location of structures, various planting
types, underground utilities, the irrigation system, and other land uses;
the condition of the existing irrigation system and drainage patterns;
a history or summary of recent fertility management and soil amendments used;
especially those that may contain nutrients or alter pH;
a list of current or potential problem areas; and
a list of client/owner requirements and expectations.
The planning and construction protocols outlined above for new construction should be
followed to the extent possible.
Section 3. Bibliography.
Best Management Practices for Lawn and Landscape Turf. University of
Massachusetts, Extension.
2010-2011 Professional Guide For IPM In Turf For Massachusetts, 104 pp.
(UMass BMP).
Sachs, Paul D., 1996, Handbook of Successful Ecological Lawn Care. The
Edaphic Press, Newbury, Vermont.
Sachs, Paul D., 1999, Edaphos: Dynamics of a Natural Soil System. The Edaphic
Press, Newbury, Vermont.
Nantucket, Town and County of, Web Resources for “Online GIS and Maps”
found at http://nantucket-ma.gov/Pages/index and directly at
http://host.appgeo.com/nantucketma/ .
11
Section 4
Soil Nutrient Analysis: The Importance of the Soil Test
Regular soil tests are a necessary component of any turf or ornamental planting
management program that includes fertilization or the addition of soil amendments.
A soil test provides the following information: soil pH; the amounts of plant nutrients
present; soil texture and organic matter content: cation exchange capacity; and
recommendations for fertilization, pH adjustment, and soil amendments.
A soil test should be conducted as far in advance of new landscape installations as possible.
For established plantings, a complete soil test should be conducted every three years and soil
pH should be determined annually.
This section provides detailed instructions on collecting soil for a soil test.
A sample soil test is provided along with detailed instructions for interpreting the test results
and guidelines to correct the identified deficiencies.
In this section, we look at a few basics about soil and then discuss the importance
of soil testing. An example of a soil test is presented and analyzed.
Soil
The upper-most layer of the earth’s crust is referred to as soil. Subject to
continual weathering and human management, soil is a mixture of mineral matter,
derived from underlying rock, organic matter both living and dead, and air and water in
the pore spaces. Soil particles are described as sand, silt, and clay in descending order of
size. The particle size distribution in any particular soil determines its texture. If the soil
is almost exclusively comprised of sand-sized particles it is called “a sand” or “a sandy
soil.” Coarse particles, such as sand, do not retain water well and are, therefore, a poor
base for plantings. They are also a poor support for plant roots. If there is a distribution
of sizes consistent with good plant growth (approximately 40 percent sand, 40 percent
silt, and 20 percent clay), then the textural name is loam. The fine materials in a loam
hold more water than sands. When the mixture of particle sizes consists of more sand
and less silt it is defined as a sandy loam. The organic matter in soil is derived from
plants, micro-organisms, and insect and animal residues. Soil organic matter increases
soil-moisture retention capacity. A sandy loam, rich in organic matter, is an ideal soil for
supporting plant life. A well-structured loam promotes air and water movement
throughout the root zone, influencing optimum growth. Soil structure is influenced by
seasonal expansion and contraction due to freeze-thaw and wet-dry cycles. A
predominantly sandy soil shows very little evidence of structure.
Nantucket’s Soil
Nantucket was created during the maximum extent of the Wisconsin-age ice sheet
some 12 to 18 thousand years ago. The slowly flowing glaciers moved material from
roughly north and west of Boston toward the sea. The source rocks were granite and
granite like, which geologists call acidic igneous rocks. In their movement, the fragments
of rock were ground into sand-sized particles and, in the case of glacial flour, clay-sized
ones. Where the ice stopped moving forward, a band of material was left at its base,
12
which is now called an “end” or terminal moraine. This band, on Nantucket, forms the
mid-Island ridge that extends from the Cliff on the north shore to Sankaty Head on the
eastern shore. The moraine and material to its north is comprised of coarse particles
including small boulder-sized rocks called cobble. Cobble can be seen on the harbor
shore at the University of Massachusetts Field Station. To the south of the moraine is the
outwash plain formed by flowing melt water that carried sand and silt particles
southward. Deposits of fine, flour-like material also were blown off the glacier and
settled to form relatively impermeable clay layers which can be found scattered across
the island.
A typical Nantucket soil tends to be sandy and acidic. It is deficient in nitrogen, in
some instances rich in phosphorus, often mildly deficient in potassium, and with the
exception of mucky peats characterizing some wetlands, deficient in organic matter. To
become productive for turf, crops or gardens, varying degrees of human management are
necessary to amend soil with the addition of organic matter, lime and fertilizers. A soil
test will determine precise characteristics of soil, and recommend fertilizer and
amendment amounts for building healthy soils for manmade landscapes.
Figure 1. A soil map of the lands around Milestone Cranberry Bog, Nantucket (USDA,
Natural Resources Conservation Service, Web Soil Survey); detailed legend and
reference may be found in Appendix 1.
Soils with similar characteristics are given a type name; soil maps show the areal
extent of soil types. Figure 1. is a soil map of a portion of the Nantucket moors and the
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Milestone Cranberry Bog (www.websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov). The numbers in the
figure refer to individual soil types; the complete map and legend is found in Appendix 1.
The Web Soil Survey can also produce agronomic and engineering characteristics for
each named soil type. Using the Web Soil Survey, a person can find the soil map of any
individual plot of land along with its characteristics.
Nantucket’s natural soils are predominantly sandy, very low in organic matter
content, and thus vulnerable to fertilizer leaching when fertilizers are applied incorrectly.
Most lawns, gardens, and manmade landscapes are dependent on varying degrees of
alteration to natural ecosystems to grow and thrive. Increasing soil fertility through
seasonal fertilizer applications is a fundamental way in which we build healthy and
successful lawns and gardens. Knowledge derived from soil testing is recommended to
ensure science-based nutrient management decisions. An agronomic soil test, of the sort
that is recommended throughout this BMP, is a shortened form of the soil analysis found
in the Web Soil Survey. The soil test, as performed on lawns and gardens, uses physical
soil samples, taken from the lawn in question, that are laboratory tested and has,
therefore, information specific to the tested lawn or garden.
Proper soil fertility for turf and landscape plants includes an ideal balance of
minerals, nutrients, and organic matter. Building the soil with organic matter to
appropriate levels and choosing correct fertilizers to maintain plant growth and vigor
must be based on a thorough understanding of the soil of a particular site. A soil-test
analysis from a reputable laboratory is the key not only to assessing your soil but is also a
starting point for decisions on how to amend or enhance it for optimal turf and plant
growth.
The chemical and physical characteristics of a particular soil are obtained with a
soil test. Chemical analysis provides information on nutrients, heavy metals, salinity, pH,
buffer pH, and Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC). Physical analysis evaluates texture and
percent organic matter. Recommendations for corrective measures, specified for a
defined crop (turfgrass is a crop in this case), are included with the soil analysis.
Following the soil-test recommendations as modified for Nantucket is an important way
to ensure that lawns and gardens are being fertilized correctly.
For soils in established, healthy turf or gardens, a comprehensive soil test is
recommended every three to four years, or more often if there are problems that require
correction. Turf pH should be monitored annually. Both acid and alkaline conditions can
affect nutrient availability, especially in turf. For a new landscape installation, the soil
being used should be tested as far in advance as possible to allow enough time for any
recommended adjustments to the soil pH, texture, organic matter, or nutrient levels to
become effective.
Collecting a Proper Soil Sample
Accurate results and recommendations from a soil-test lab depend on obtaining a
good sample. Individual labs provide detailed instructions on collecting, labeling and
14
sending samples. Links are provided to two recommended labs: http://www.al-labs.com/,
A&L Laboratories; and http://www.umass.edu/soiltest/, UMass Soil Testing; both
provide comprehensive soil-testing instructions. For further lab contact information refer
to Appendix 3.
Some tips for obtaining good soil samples follow.
Use a stainless steel or chrome-plated soil probe, auger or trowel. Do not use
brass, bronze, or galvanized tools because they may contaminate samples.
Numerous samples of a representative area should be taken to a depth of 4” and
mixed together. Place 1- 2 cups of the mixed sample into a quart-size sealable
plastic bag, and label it with property identification and type of use.
Each sample should represent one use area: e.g., a lawn, a vegetable garden, or a
perennial garden.
Samples can be taken any time of year but, for consistency, should be at about the
same time of the year in successive years. If done at the end of the calendar year,
laboratory results will be returned in time for the next growing season.
For recently limed or fertilized soil, testing should be delayed by eight weeks to
allow time for the nutrients to become available.
Take separate samples for areas showing abnormal plant growth, discoloration or
other cultural problems, and for areas that have markedly different soil types.
Figure 2. A Sample Soil-Test Analysis for a Nantucket soil. This is an actual soil but is
not representative of all Nantucket soils.
Explanation of the Sample Soil Test Analysis
15
In this sub-section, each of the components of the soil test is presented along with
probable ranges for the units by which the component is measured. The information in
this section comes from an accredited laboratory; further explanation can be found in the
reference works listed in the bibliography.
Soil Test Ratings: Individual nutrient elements from this lab are rated with five
levels: from “Very Low” to “Very High.” “Very Low” means the soil is deficient and the
addition of the element is beneficial for the crop tested in this sample, which is a
bluegrass lawn. A “Low” or a “Medium” level means that a specified amount of the
nutrient needs to be added to the soil to maintain correct fertility. “Optimum” means the
correct amount of nutrient is present in the soil and it does not need to be added. A “Very
High” level means the nutrient is present in the soil in excess of what the plant needs.
The BMP is concerned that excesses can lead to nutrient losses into ground and surface
water.
Soil pH: pH, which stands for “parts of Hydrogen,” measures soil acidity or
alkalinity. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Values higher are alkaline while values lower are acid.
A pH of 6.0-7.0 is the desired range for most turf and garden plants grown in mineral
soils. Correct soil pH is important for the plant’s ability to absorb and utilize fertilizers.
This soil test indicates that pH is in the optimum level for a bluegrass lawn.
Phosphorus: Elevated levels of phosphorus are a major contributing factor to
freshwater-pond contamination. This test measures phosphorus that is readily available to
plants. 40 to 100 parts per million, PPM, is adequate for most lawn and garden plants. In
this sample, phosphorus measured “Very High”; so none should be added.
Potassium: This test measures available potassium in a soil. The optimum level
will vary with plant, yield and soil type. A potassium level of 120-200 PPM is adequate
for most plants. If deficient, higher levels are generally needed on soils high in clay or
organic matter versus soils that are sandy and low in organic matter. As mentioned in
Section 2., there are two different tests that can be used to measure phosphorus. When
comparing results, care should be taken to use the same test.
Calcium and magnesium: Calcium deficiencies are rare when the soil pH is
adequate. Magnesium deficiencies are more common. Calcium will be in the optimum
range once lime is applied to adjust to the pH-level appropriate for the chosen plants.
Apply dolomitic lime if magnesium levels fall below 70 PPM.
Sulfur: This test shows no ratings for sulfate sulfur, the readily available form of
sulfur preferred by plants. Optimum levels usually range from 20 to 30 PPM.
Micronutrients (zinc, manganese, iron, copper, boron): Turf grasses need very
little amounts of these micronutrients and soil can usually provide enough when the pH is
below 7.0. For garden and flowering plants, the optimum range for zinc is 6-10 PPM,
manganese is 20-40 PPM, iron is 10-50 PPM, copper is 0.4-5.0 PPM, and boron is 0.8-
16
2.0 PPM. These levels may be somewhat arbitrary, as there are no scientific studies to
confirm these levels for turfgrass health or uses.
Sodium: Sodium is a non-essential nutrient for most crops. Its effect on the
physical condition of the soil is of greater importance. High sodium levels may cause
adverse physical and chemical conditions in soils. Excessive levels of sodium can be
reduced by leaching and through the application of calcium sulfate (gypsum).
Soluble Salts: Excessive concentrations of various salts can develop in soils.
This may be from natural causes, the result of irrigation with high salt-content water,
excessive synthetic fertilizers, and organic composts, or contamination from chemical or
industrial waste. Above 1900 PPM is hazardous and needs to be leached from the soil.
Organic Matter: Organic matter, OM, is expressed as a percentage of the total
soil mass. It measures the amount of decomposed plant and animal residues in a soil. It
is clear that on Nantucket the organic matter percentages are much lower than found on
the mainland. Some of this may be a result of weather-stunted growth of plants in open
areas but the main reason for the lower values is the rapid oxidation of carbonaceous and
nitrogen-bearing material into volatile forms that are lost to the soil. This rapid
decomposition is a function of Nantucket’s sandy soils and is very difficult to impede. It
means that the development of a soil that is at the upper end of a Nantucket spectrum (3
percent or so) may take a number of years of supplemental feeding.
ENR, next to OM in Figure 2, refers to “Estimated Nitrogen Release.” This
number, 134, indicates the amount of nitrogen in pounds per acre that can potentially be
released from the OM content in this soil throughout the season under ideal conditions.
In normal conditions, somewhat less will be released in any one year. To convert this
figure to lbs. per 1000 square feet, divide by 43.56 (43,560 square feet equals one acre).
After converting to lbs. per 1000 square feet, an estimated 3.08 lbs/1000sq ft of N from
OM may be released over the course of the season, which is greater than the total annual
need by turf on Nantucket for nitrogen. The rate at which organic matter will decompose
and release nitrogen depends on many factors, but those having the greatest influence are
soil type, moisture and temperature. The rate of nitrogen release will be greater in higher
soil temperatures and moisture levels. In this example, with the amount of nitrogen from
OM potentially available over a growing season, additional inputs may be greatly
reduced. ENR is not a reliable way to assess nitrogen demands but does give a snapshot
of the potentially available nitrogen in a soil.
Calculated Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC): This factor measures the soil’s
ability to hold elements with positive charges such as calcium, magnesium, potassium,
sodium, and hydrogen. The CEC of a soil will increase with higher amounts of clay and
organic matter. The normal value for loamy soil is 4-8. This test shows excellent cation
exchange capacity, an important factor in nutrient availability to plants. Recent studies
indicate 6 as the critical CEC level. Recent studies indicate 6 as the critical CEC level.
Applying the Soil Test Fertility Guidelines to Correct Deficiencies
17
Soil fertility recommendations, at the bottom of the sample soil test, list
recommended rates of nutrients, as pounds per 1000 square feet, to correct identified
deficiencies. It is stressed that this is an example culled from the literature and is not
specific to Nantucket.
Since the value of K is below optimum and Mg is in the low range, we need to
add these nutrients to balance the soil. The fertility guidelines of the soil test recommend
adding 4.0 lbs K per 1000 square feet. Either an organic or a synthetic source of K may
be used. When using a combination product whose application rate is determined by
nitrogen needs, it may be necessary to spread additional potassium. If too much K will
result from using a combination product, alternative sources must be found.
Only one pound of K can be applied efficiently per application, so the K should
be applied in successive applications over the season. Four applications of sulfate of
potash at 1.93 lbs per 1000 square feet, or four applications of sulfate of potash-magnesia
at 1.2 lbs per 1000 square feet, should be applied throughout the growing season to bring
the K level to the optimal range.
Once application rates for correcting deficiencies are determined, soil ENR, visual
inspection of plants for color and vigor, and cultural practices factor into determining a
seasonal fertility program for the turf.
The pH is in the optimum range of 6.0-7.0 for turf grass, so it does not require
lime.
In this example, OM is 6.9 %, which results in an ENR of 3.08 lbs/1000 sq ft of
N. ENR helps to give us a ‘snapshot’ of what level of nitrogen may be present in the soil,
and what could “potentially” be available for uptake. Not all of the N contained in the
soil may be available when the turf needs it, because N is extremely changeable in soil.
This potentially-available nitrogen may reduce the need for additional N inputs to
maintain turf performance and soil fertility. With combined cultural practices of
recycling clippings, correct irrigation management, and appropriate mowing height, very
little additional nitrogen may be needed to promote a healthy turf.
Section 4. Bibliography
United States Department of Agriculture, Natural Resources Conservation
Service, Web Soil Survey,
http://websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov/app/HomePage.htm.
18
Section 5
Building the Soil
Nantucket soils are primarily sandy, with low organic matter content and poor water and
nutrient-retention capacity.
Compost consists of partially decomposed plant and animal material. Well-made compost
includes beneficial bacteria and fungi. Plant-based composts have lower levels of
phosphorus than manure-based compost.
Compost can be used to increase soil organic matter, add nutrients, increase aeration, and
improve soil-water and nutrient-holding capacity. Because of the large amounts of compost
necessary to increase a soil’s organic matter content, only plant-based compost should be
used to increase OM and soil tests should be taken between applications to monitor nutrient
levels.
Compost provides energy for beneficial soil organisms and helps support soil microbial
activity.
When preparing soil for new turf or ornamental plantings, rototill compost into the soil to a
depth of six to twelve inches or to the bottom of the projected root zone.
Established turf can be top dressed with a ¼” of compost per application. Turf should be
core aerated prior to composting and compost raked into turf. Soil should be tested before
any additional applications are made.
One-half to one inch of compost can be incorporated into garden beds annually to serve as a
fertilizer and soil conditioner.
Compost tea is a liquid diffusion of compost; though not yet scientifically supported, it is
used primarily as a means of supplementing microbial activity in soil. It is also used as a
foliar fertilizer.
Compost and compost tea are considered to be fertilizers by this BMP. The amounts of
nitrogen or phosphorus added during composting must be included in annual, application
totals.
Avoid compost containing significant amounts of phosphorus unless a soil test indicates a
phosphorus deficiency. The compost source should be sampled annually to determine
nitrogen and phosphorus content. Composts that contain high levels of soluble salts, lack
proper maturity, and have an improper pH, should also be avoided.
The Role of Compost
The earlier discussion on soil suggested that a healthy soil is a sandy loam
containing five or six percent organic matter. Nantucket’s native soils are mostly sand
and have little to no organic matter. This section discusses soil augmentation for
improved growth, primarily through the addition of organic matter. Soil and compost
testing are extremely important when augmenting soil to avoid any nutrient over loading.
Where gardens or lawns have been augmented with imported soil or turf has been
established with sod, it is just as important to have a soil test that characterizes the new
soil.
Increasing soil organic matter content by adding compost improves soil structure,
aeration, microbiology, and the soil’s water- holding capacity. Compost also provides
food for microorganisms and helps to maintain soil in a balanced healthy condition. A
turf or garden soil that has been amended correctly with compost can significantly lower
the demand for both water and fertilizer inputs.
19
Compost is the end product of a complex biological process of decomposition
involving hundreds of different organisms including bacteria, fungi, worms, and insects.
In simplest terms, compost is decomposed organic material. Compost can be derived
from both plant and animal residues. Plant-based composts are lower in nitrogen and
phosphorous and tend to last longer in the soil than manure-based composts. Adding
compost to soils in manmade landscapes, where nature’s recycling has been removed,
helps to build and maintain soil-fertility levels for turf and gardens. Compost is
commercially produced and available in bulk or bags for the landscape trade.
Commercially available composts, particularly when packaged in bags, may be labeled
with a good content analysis. Most bulk compost suppliers should provide an analysis of
their product as well. These analyses should be referenced with a soil test prior to using
the product. Compost may also be generated at home with garden waste products
including grass cuttings and swept-up leaves. Home-produced composts should be tested
to determine their nutrient content.
In terms of its nutrient content, compost is a fertilizer and contains varying
amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium depending on its source. Plant-based
compost will be low in phosphorus (P2O5), 0.1 to 0.2 percent, and moderate in nitrogen;
cow manure will be higher in nitrogen and have a phosphorus content of 0.8 to 1.2
percent; chicken manure will also have an adequate amount of nitrogen but, often, too
high of an amount of phosphorus for typical Nantucket soils, 1.8 to 2.0 percent. Some
manure-based composts, particularly from poultry, will have elevated amounts of salt in
them and this must be checked before applying them.
Concern exists for the amount of compost to be added to a soil for amending its
content of organic matter because it is easily possible to add too much nitrogen or
phosphorus while doing so and these are the very elements that need to be limited to
protect waters. The amount of these nutrients in compost must be known and be factored
in to nutrient management planning for turf or gardens. A conservative approach to the
use of compost is to apply less rather than more and then take a soil sample eight weeks
later. The analysis of that sample can guide subsequent applications of compost.
Organic Matter (OM) Soil Content
The normal ideal range for organic matter (OM) content in soils for turf and
gardens is 5-8 percent. Because of the increased volatilization by weathering of organic
sources of carbon and nitrogen in dry, sandy soils such as exist on Nantucket, the ideal
range is somewhat less here. For Nantucket, the ideal is considered to approach 3
percent. In actuality, Nantucket’s naturally sandy topsoil contains OM in ranges as low
as between 0.8 -2.2 percent. Compost is one of the best products for increasing soil OM
content. Other products commonly used on Nantucket to increase soil OM are horse and
chicken manures. It is important that these manures be composted properly before being
applied or incorporated into soil, because when used in raw form, they may damage
plants or contribute to nutrient leaching. It has been noted that poultry manures can be
high in sodium, which, because of its toxicity to plants, becomes the limiting factor in
application rates.
20
As soil organic matter decays, some of its carbon and nitrogen is released to the
soil and atmosphere. In addition, growing plants take up nutrients. In a situation of
equilibrium growth, newly fallen vegetation replaces these losses and plant populations
are constrained by the availability or lack thereof of nutrients. Where grass clippings and
fallen leaves are removed as part of lawn maintenance, the organic matter content of a
soil could fall below this equilibrium level and fertilization is needed or the plant
populations will decline. In lawns where organic matter levels are elevated, such as when
clippings are allowed to remain on a lawn, the reserve of organic matter could remain at
its optimum level. There are many examples on Nantucket of mature lawn plantings that
require little to no extra fertilization to remain green and healthy throughout the growing
season.
On the other hand, if a newly established lawn or garden is found to be deficient
in organic matter, then the addition of compost can remedy this situation over time. As
explained in the next section, additions of reasonable amounts of compost may be
preferred to attempting to do it all in one application. The challenge is two-fold: new
plantings may not have a sufficient root system to provide a host for large quantities of
organic matter and large doses of compost may overload the soil system with nutrients,
particularly phosphorus, where the excess amounts are able to leach into groundwater.
Annual soil tests and regular examination of the health of the turf or garden plants will
indicate if correct amounts have been applied.
Applying Compost
To amend soil for the establishment of new turf, compost should be mixed into
the soil prior to seeding, which is easily accomplished using a rototiller. Layering
compost into the soil without mixing not only impedes water and air movement, but can
provide for a ‘band’ of nutrients that are more likely to leach. Compost can be added to
existing turf by topdressing. When topdressing, a lawn should be core aerated first to
prevent layering and then topped with ¼” of compost with the exact amount being
dependent on the source of the compost. This amount of compost can be applied late
spring or early fall. It is important to note that adjustments to organic matter content
should be done over time, often 10 to 25 years, to prevent the application of excess
amounts of nutrients.
Section 8. “Fertilizer Application Timing and Rate Guidelines,” provides
guidance on amounts and schedules for applying fertilizer. Inasmuch as compost is a
fertilizer, there is a table in this section that suggests amounts of compost to be applied
for desired nitrogen outcomes. It is stressed that this table is based on assumptions, the
biggest of which is the amount of nitrogen to be derived from the compost in a year, and
that it gives approximate guidance only.
An application of one-half to one-inch of compost, incorporated annually to
perennial or mixed gardens, ornamental shrubs, and trees, can act as a fertilizer and a soil
builder. In this BMP, compost is considered a fertilizer because it contains varying
21
amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Before applying or incorporating
compost into soil, it is important to ascertain its nutrient content to factor in when
determining application rates.
Critical to the assessment of application amounts of compost is the soil’s
phosphorus level. If a soil test indicates a deficiency in phosphorus, then compost may
be added as noted above. When considering how much phosphorus may be added, one
should note the nature of the test that was used and then follow guidance for that
particular test (Mehlich III or Morgan) on how much additional phosphorus is needed. If
the phosphorus level is optimum for plant growth, small amounts of compost may still be
added to soil but that compost must be a low phosphorous and a soil test should follow
before any additional applications are made.
Compost is available in bags and in bulk. Bulk compost must come from a
reliable source and have a lab-certified content analysis, similar to soil analysis. Small-
scale composting can be especially useful for home gardeners. Testing should be
performed annually to have a thorough understanding of the nutrient content, especially
nitrogen and phosphorus, of the compost applied. For more information on other sources
of organic matter, compost, compost tea, and composting, refer to the bibliography.
Compost Tea
Compost tea is an amendment that may add beneficial microorganisms to soil or
leaf surfaces. It is made by steeping well-aged compost in oxygenated water. The
process involves adding a variety of nutrients and supplements and takes several days.
Organisms and nutrients created in compost tea can vary widely depending on how the
tea is made. It is important to test compost tea before using it as the addition of nutrients
and supplements can enhance the growth of human pathogenic bacteria, in addition to
those bacteria and fungi that are beneficial to soil health. Consequently, take extra care
when applying composts derived from manures Compost tea needs to be filtered and
used as soon as possible as the organisms die rapidly if not kept aerated. For more
information on compost tea see “Compost Tea: Easy As 1, 2, 3” in the following link
from the Pennsylvania Department of Environmental Resources, who maintain a content-
rich web site:
http://www.dep.state.pa.us/dep/deputate/airwaste/wm/recycle/Tea/tea1.htm .
Conclusion
For purposes of this BMP, compost is considered a fertilizer. As with all
landscape nutrient-management programs, understanding how nutrients, whether organic
or synthetic in origin, move through the soil and are made available to plants is the basis
for determining correct rates and timing of all fertilizers. Section 6. “Fertilizer Types and
Sources” and its associated appendix include comprehensive descriptions of all sources
of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K).
22
For more information on building the soil, organic landscape management,
compost, and compost tea, please refer to the bibliography.
Section 5. Bibliography
Sachs, Paul D., 1996 Handbook of Successful Ecological Lawn Care. The
Edaphic Press, Newbury, Vermont.
Sachs, Paul D., 1999 Edaphos: Dynamics of a Natural Soil System. The Edaphic
Press, Newbury, Vermont.
Campbell, S., 1998. Let it Rot! The Gardener’s Guide to Composting, Storey
Publishing.
The NOFA Organic Lawn and Turf Handbook. 2007. Northeast Organic Farming
Association, Connecticut and Massachusetts Chapter.
NOFA Standards for Organic Land Care: Practices for Design and Maintenance
of Ecological Landscapes, 2009.
Lowenfels, Jeff. 2010, Teeming with Microbes, The Organic Gardener’s Guide to
the Soil Food Web. Timber Press.
Nardi, James B. 2007. Life in the Soil: A Guide for Naturalists and Gardeners.
University of Chicago Press.
Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, Department of Environmental Resources,
Bureau of Waste Management, Recycling, Compost,
http://www.dep.state.pa.us/dep/deputate/airwaste/wm/recycle/Tea/tea1.htm .
23
Section 6
Fertilizer Types and Sources
Fertilizer is a generic term for a material that contains one or more plant mineral nutrients.
Fertilizers may also contain microbial agents.
Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) are the primary nutrients found in
fertilizers.
This section discusses the similarities and differences between organic and synthetic
fertilizers and between slow, or controlled, release (water insoluble, for the most part) and
fast release (water soluble) nitrogen fertilizers.
Numerous, commonly used natural and synthetic sources and types of nitrogen, phosphorus
and potassium fertilizer are discussed in an appendix, along with guidelines for their use on
Nantucket.
Instructions on how to read and interpret fertilizer labels are presented.
The sources and types of fertilizers available today are numerous and vary widely.
Blends are formulated and specified for everything from turf, to roses, hollies and
hydrangeas. The terms organic or natural are often included on fertilizer labels and can
be misleading. More important to understand, when choosing which fertilizer to apply
for plants growing in Nantucket’s climate and soils, are the specific forms of the three
macronutrients: nitrogen (N) , phosphorus (P as P2O5), and potassium (K as K2O) found
in a typical fertilizer. Fast release, slow release, water soluble, or water insoluble are all
terms that more accurately describe how and when nutrients applied will be available to
turf and plants. This section explains sources of types of fertilizers in detail. As always,
before applying any fertilizer, whether to turf or garden plants, a soil test is recommended
to ascertain what nutrients may be deficient or already available in the soil.
Interpreting Nutrient Ratios on a Typical Label
The nutrient ratio on a fertilizer bag is easily misunderstood. Fertilizer analysis,
as stated on the label on the bag, is the legal guarantee of the percentage of elemental N,
nitrogen, percentage of P2O5, a source of phosphorus, and the percentage of K2O, a
source of potassium contained in the product. Fertilizer ratio is the ratio of each
ingredient to the others. In the sample label below, the fertilizer analysis is 8-4-8. The
amount of nitrogen is expressed on an elemental basis (actual nitrogen), whereas
phosphorus is expressed as available phosphate (P₂O₅), and potassium is expressed as
potash (K₂O). The label indicates that 8 percent of the product’s weight is total nitrogen,
4 percent is available phosphate, and 8 percent is potash. The ratio of these three,
expressed in the lowest common denominator, is 2:1:2. The label will describe from
what sources the fertilizer was derived as well as what percentage of nitrogen (N) is slow
release. Information about slow-release nitrogen is explained in greater detail below.
24
Figure 3. A Sample Fertilizer Label Analysis
Some fertilizers also provide information on micronutrients and non-plant food
ingredient content and the amounts and types of beneficial microbes in the product as
indicated in the label below.
Figure 4. A Fertilizer Label including Non-Plant Food Ingredients.
When determining the proper analysis, or blend of nutrients, with which to
fertilize, a soil test should always be followed. A soil test will reveal the need for
macronutrients such as phosphorus and potassium, secondary nutrients such as calcium
and magnesium, and finally micronutrients such as iron and manganese. A reputable
soil-testing laboratory will also provide recommended rates to use. Contact information
25
for two laboratories is included in the appendix. Soil tests are discussed in detail in
Section 4. “Soil Nutrient Analysis: The Importance of the Soil Test.”
The majority of soils on Nantucket may have adequate, or even high, levels of
phosphorus and may not require phosphorus fertilization. A fertilizer containing
phosphorus should only be applied after a soil test has been conducted showing a
phosphorus deficiency. Only the amount recommended to correct the phosphorus
deficiency should be applied. Potassium is vital for plant growth, and while not a
constituent of any part of the plant, does aid in carbohydrate movement and helps open
and close stomata for water use efficiency.
When referring to a soil test for these nutrients, if a deficiency is found, a
recommended rate will be given to correct the deficiency. The rate will be stated as
pounds of phosphate (P₂O₅) per 1,000 square feet in the case of phosphorus and pounds
of potash (K₂O) per 1,000 square feet in the case of potassium.
Before undertaking a more in-depth discussion of nitrogen sources, it might be
useful to define the following abbreviations commonly used in describing the nitrogen
portion of the fertilizer analysis or ratio.
WIN – Water insoluble nitrogen. Nitrogen in this form will not break down by
hydrolysis (water) rapidly, but instead is reliant on microbial activity and soil
temperature for its release. WIN can be a very good indication of how slowly
nitrogen will release and become available to the plant except for coated
fertilizers (see CRN below). Typically, the higher the amount of WIN in a
fertilizer, the more slow release is the product. WIN is listed by percentage on the
label of the fertilizer bag. It should be noted that WIN nitrogen is released
eventually into the soil and, if more is applied than is needed by the plants, can
contribute to nutrient contamination just as the water-soluble nitrogen listed
below.
WSN – Water-soluble nitrogen. Nitrogen in this form is released by rain,
irrigation, or water in the soil. Generally, WSN is immediately and quickly
available to the plant, although some WSN products are protected by a physical
barrier that make them slowly available. In this case, the term slowly available
water soluble nitrogen (SAWSN) applies. WSN is usually listed by percentage on
the label of the fertilizer bag. A subsequent section talks about the challenge of a
large rain event or excessive irrigation falling just after the application of water-
soluble nitrogen.
SRN – Slow-release nitrogen or slowly available nitrogen. This term
encompasses many types of nitrogen sources that are designed to release over
time. SRN can be organic, synthetic, or in a ‘bridge’ product, which is a
combination of organic and synthetic. The amount of time for nitrogen to release
is dependent on the source or chemistry of the individual product. SRN can
contain WIN and CRN (controlled or coated slow release nitrogen) sources.
26
CRN – Initials for controlled or coated slow-release technology; another form of
slow-release nitrogen. Usually CRN fertilizers are synthetic and the slow-release
percentages can range from 25-100 percent.
Most fertilizers contain a blend of WIN, WSN, and SRN. Others are 100 percent
WSN or 100 percent WIN or SRN. Products that are 100 percent WSN, such as a
straight 46-0-0 urea or potassium nitrate should be carefully diluted to meet the 0.25 lb
per 1000 sq ft limit discussed later, be part of a strict spoon-feeding fertilizer program, or
be avoided altogether on Nantucket. If they are part of a blend, they must conform to the
requirements in Section 8. “Fertilizer Application Timing and rate Guidelines” in regard
to the minimum amount of slow-release nitrogen required.
Sources and Types of Nitrogen Fertilizers
Sources of nitrogen in a bag of fertilizer can vary greatly. The type of fertilizer –
slow release, quick release, natural organic, blended product, synthetic slow release, etc.
– varies just as much. However, when broken down to its most basic level, nitrogen is
either fast release or slow release. Fast-release types of nitrogen are soluble in water and
are rapidly available to the plant after fertilization. Because of their high solubility in
water, leaching can be a concern for some fast-release sources particularly if applied in or
just before a large precipitation event. Conversely, because of the potential build-up of
reserve nitrogen in the soil, slow-release sources can also contribute to leaching
Fast-release sources of nitrogen are usually present, in at least a small percentage,
in any blended fertilizer, whether organic or synthetic. However, for applications made
on Nantucket, no fast-release source may exceed the rate and percentage guidelines listed
in Section 8. “Fertilizer Application Timing and Rate Guidelines.” A brief discussion of
some synthetic fast-release nitrogen sources is listed in Appendix 4.
Slow-release nitrogen sources delay the release of nitrogen in various ways and
may reduce the risk of leaching, particularly when the risk of leaching is high, such as in
an abnormally wet season. Using slow-release products on Nantucket’s turf and garden
soils can be an important step in protecting its waters. However, slow-release nitrogen
sources and products vary greatly. Many products are available and sold as slow release
and some are better than others in predicting and controlling the release of nitrogen.
Many types of organic and synthetic fertilizers are excellent at controlling the release of
nitrogen. But it is imperative to read the label to determine the percentage of slow
release nitrogen for either organic or synthetic products. On Nantucket, the percentage of
slow release N applied to turf or soil must be no less than 50 percent as explained in
Section 8. Only the following exceptions are made:
Foliar fertilizer applications at less than 0.25 lbs. of actual nitrogen per 1,000
sq.ft. Foliar feeding is discussed in greater detail in Section 8.
Spoon feeding with fast-release products at 0.25 lb/1000 sq ft of N or less.
27
Nitrogen release from slow-release fertilizers is not monotonic, i.e. at a steady and
predictable rate, but is a factor of temperature, soil moisture, and microbiotic activity and
can vary with fluctuations in these factors. A slow-release fertilizer is ideal when
rainfalls are unpredictable but sudden; the nitrogen is not lost in a sudden rush as might
be the case with a fast-release fertilizer. On the other hand, in normal moisture
conditions, i.e. drier, the use of slow-release fertilizers is no protection from the losses
that come from excessive application.
Sources and Types of Phosphorus Fertilizers
If after conducting a soil test, it is determined that phosphorus is deficient in the
soil, choosing a source of phosphorus is the next step. Because the majority of
phosphorus sources contain nitrogen as well, it is necessary to account for any nitrogen
applied when using these types of products. Any nitrogen applied counts against the
maximum yearly use rate, and the sources of nitrogen are also subject to maximum quick
release amounts as detailed in Section 8.
Sources and Types of Potassium
Though potassium is not a major focus of the Nantucket BMP as are nitrogen and
phosphorus, its use and application still needs to be made responsibly and in accordance
with soil-test results. Many sources of potassium have been discussed above under
nitrogen and phosphorus sources, but the appendix lists (Appendix 3.C.) a few more.
Section 6. Bibliography
Sartain, J. B., Food for turf: Slow-release nitrogen, University of Florida. Grounds
Maintenance. Published by Penton Media. Located January, 2011, at URL:
http://www.grounds-mag.com/mag/grounds_maintenance_food_turf_slowrelease/
Card, A., D. Whiting, and C. Wilson (CSU Extension) and Reeder, J (USDA-
ARS, retired). CMG GardenNotes #234, Organic Fertilizers. Colorado State
University Extension. December 2009. Located January, 2011, at URL:
http://cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/234.pdf .
Barbarick, K. A., Organic Materials as Nitrogen Fertilizers, No 0.546, Colorado
State University Extension. January 2006. Located January, 2011, at URL:
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/crops/00546.html .
Grubinger, V. Sources of Nitrogen for Organic Farms, University of Vermont
Extension. July 2009. Located January, 2011, at URL:
http://www.uvm.edu/vtvegandberry/factsheets/organicN.html.
Penhallegon, R., Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium Values of Organic Fertilizers,
Publication LC 437, Oregon State University Extension Service. May 2003.
Located January, 2011, at URL:
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/lane/sites/default/files/documents/lc437organicfe
rtilizersvaluesrev.pdf .
Blessington, T. M., D. L. Clement, and K. G. Williams, Organic and Inorganic
Fertilizers, Fact Sheet 837, University of Maryland Cooperative Extension. March
28
2009. Located January, 2011, at URL:
http://environmentalhorticulture.umd.edu/ProductionInformation/Organics.pdf .
Mugaas, R. J., Responsible Fertilizer Practices for Lawns, WW-06551, University
of Minnesota Extension. 2009. Located January, 2011, at URL:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/dg6551.html .
Mikkelsen, R., and T. K. Hartz, Nitrogen Sources for Organic Crop Production.
Better Crops, Vol. 92. No. 4, 2008. Located January, 2011, at URL:
http://www.ipni.net/ppiweb/bcrops.nsf/$webindex/90DDC9214EC7DB0A852575
0600529B78/$file/BC08-4p16.pdf .
29
Section 7
Turfgrass Blends, Mixes, and Their Selection
Numerous species, varieties and cultivars of turfgrass are available for use on Nantucket.
Species commonly used on Nantucket lawns include Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass,
tall fescue, and several species of fine fescue. Details are placed in an appendix.
This section discusses the advantages and disadvantages of the various turfgrass species,
cultivars, mixes, and blends as well as appropriate uses and fertilizer requirements
Species and cultivar selection depend upon intended use, soil and other environmental
conditions, and degree of intended maintenance. A mix of species or a blend of cultivars
may be preferable for many uses.
A mix of fine fescue species is recommended for low-maintenance lawns requiring reduced
water and fertilizer inputs.
New varieties of turf-type tall fescues are recommended for medium to high maintenance
lawns requiring irrigation and greater fertilizer inputs.
Native and other warm-season grasses make a viable alternative for low-maintenance lawns.
Turf seed mixes consist of two or more different species of grasses. A typical
mix, for Nantucket’s climate, contains Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fine
fescues. A mix of these species is fairly adaptable to differing site conditions. A blend,
as compared to a mix, is made up of two or more cultivars of the same species of grass.
For example, a blend of perennial ryegrass might be made up of three or more varieties or
cultivars of perennial ryegrass. Blends are often used in highly-maintained lawns where
uniform appearance and performance are required or for over-seeding established lawns.
For either blends or mixes, at least three cultivars or varieties should be included to
minimize the loss of turf when one variety or cultivar succumbs to disease or weather
stress. A seed mix and a seed blend for different types of lawns on Nantucket are
recommended at the end of this section.
Turfgrass selection is determined by environmental conditions, intended use of
the turf area, and degree of management desired for the turf. Intended uses range from
those needing very high maintenance, such as golf courses, parks, athletic fields and
some residential lawns, to low maintenance uses, including situations with reduced inputs
including fertilizer and irrigation, such as roadsides, sensitive areas adjacent to wetlands,
and including some residential lawns. Ultimately the selection of turfgrass is a decision
between the homeowner, or customer, and the landscape professional providing a range
of available options.
Grasses vary in tolerance of soil moisture, pH, fertility and temperature ranges.
They also vary in resistance to stresses caused by excessive wear, mowing, insects and
disease. On Nantucket many species of turfgrasses can be used in mixtures to produce a
dense lawn. The principal species of cool season grasses for turf are Kentucky bluegrass,
perennial ryegrass, tall fescues, and fine fescues (creeping, red chewings, and hard).
Cultivars within each species offer further options for improved aesthetic and resistance
qualities.
30
The depth of turfgrass roots is highly dependent upon soil type, temperature, and
moisture. In hot and dry summers, turfgrass root systems will become shallower. Some
grasses are more tolerant of drought and heat than others.
Certain cultivars of perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and fine fescues also contain
fungal endophytes. Endophytes are forms of fungus living inside grasses that enhance
turf quality, but are not visible on the grass. Endophytic grasses have a high tolerance of
environmental stresses and may perform well under low maintenance programs.
Endophytic grasses also have increased resistance to leaf feeding insects such as billbugs,
sod webworm, and chinch bugs. Some cultivars of fine fescues containing endophytes
also resist dollar spot, a disease associated with low fertility. Because the fungi are not
compatible with animals, endophytic cultivars should never be planted where animals
might graze. A thorough listing of varieties and cultivars is included in Appendix 5.
Turfgrass Mix and Blend Recommendations for Nantucket
A Seed-Blend Recommendation for Lower-Maintenance Lawns Requiring
Reduced Inputs. For a low-maintenance, non irrigated lawn on Nantucket, an
endophytically enhanced mix of fine fescues is recommended. These fine-fescue mixes
require little to no nutrient inputs, and perform well with minimal cultural practices. Fine
fescues have the potential for deep root systems, use water extremely efficiently, and can
naturally avoid dormancy through all but the driest parts of the season. Fine fescues
should only be watered during hot, droughty periods, and not more than twice a week;
actual timing of watering depends upon turf density, soil type, temperature, etc.
Watering fine fescues other than at times of heat and drought can be detrimental. Fine
fescues should be mown at a minimum height of 2.5 inches. During establishment, fine
fescues may be mixed with a small percentage of perennial rye grass to provide quick
cover and erosion control while the fine fescues become established. If properly
managed, the rye grass may die out over time; even if it does not, it is of little
consequence.
A Seed Blend Recommendation for a Medium- to High-Maintenance
Irrigated Lawn. For an irrigated high quality lawn, whether organically or synthetically
fertilized, relatively new varieties of turf-type tall fescues are recommended for a dense
dark green lawn. Turf-type tall fescues are very similar in color to Kentucky bluegrass
but the leaf is just slightly coarser in texture. It takes a trained eye to tell the two types
apart, and it has become more readily available in sod form in recent years. Turf-type tall
fescues have the potential to develop deep root systems, allowing more efficient use of
both water and nutrients. Turf-type tall fescue requires 2-3 lbs. N/1000 sq.ft. annually to
maintain density. Irrigation might only be necessary for turf-type tall fescues to avoid
mid summer dormancy, but irrigation should be used sparingly unless it becomes visually
apparent that it is necessary. During a typical Nantucket growing season, irrigation
should not be necessary until the end of June or early July depending on precipitation. At
this time, if conditions are droughty, only one inch of water per week should be required,
applied twice a week. Watering should be monitored to assure recharge into the root
zone. As temperatures begin to cool in early September irrigation should no longer be
31
necessary. Good cultural practices are important to maintain tall fescue performance.
Annual over seeding in late summer is recommended to maintain density. Turf-type tall
fescue looks best when used as a blend rather than a mixture, that is, a blend of tall fescue
varieties or cultivars, not mixed with Kentucky bluegrass or perennial ryegrass.
Native and Warm-Season Grasses. Most Nantucket native grasses are varieties
of warm-season grasses. While presenting some increased difficulty in establishment,
once mature, warm-season grasses grow with little to no maintenance and survive
droughty periods almost effortlessly. These species are a good choice for open land,
property-boundary breaks, and low-maintenance lawns. Much more information about
them can be found in Section 13. “Alternative naturalistic Style Practices.”
Source Material.
This section was written by Nantucket Landscapers led by Jonathan Wisentaner. It was
reviewed carefully by the external reviewers credited in the Acknowledgements section.
32
Section 8
Fertilizer Application Timing and Rate Guidelines
Safe and effective fertilizer application depends on application rate and timing.
Fertilizer should only be applied on Nantucket between April 15 (tax day) and October 15
(approximately Columbus Day) and when soil temperatures are above 55oF.
Fertilizers should not be applied before a heavy rain. Avoid excessive irrigation following
fertilizer application.
Nitrogen fertilizers used on Nantucket normally should contain at least 50% slow-release
nitrogen. Exceptions are made for licensed applicators that follow the Nantucket BMP
guidelines.
The maximum nitrogen application rate on Nantucket is 3 lb N/1000 ft2/year.
No individual application should exceed 1 lb N/1000ft2 of which no more than 0.25 lb may be
fast-release fertilizer. Implicit is the understanding that no more than six (6) applications
may be made in one growing season.
Individual applications should be two weeks apart, at a minimum, to allow time for the
fertilizer to be taken up by plants and its impact on growth assessed. The interval needs to
be lengthened if applications of more than 0.5 lbs/1000 sq ft of N are applied.
Phosphorus should only be applied if a soil test indicates a deficiency.
Foliar fertilizers are dilute, liquid-nutrient solutions that are applied directly to, and taken
up, by plant leaves. Foliar fertilizers are often applied as part of a practice of spoon feeding.
Spoon feeding is often the most efficient way to fertilize, though may not be realistic for most
applicators or homeowners.
These guidelines are contained in a convenient table.
The proper timing and rate of fertilizer applications are important for many
reasons. From a plant-health perspective, applying fertilizer at the wrong time, or at the
wrong rate, can be detrimental. From an environmental perspective, applying fertilizer at
the wrong time or rate can lead to surface runoff to harbors and ponds or leaching to
ground water. As pointed out in previous sections of the BMP, Nantucket’s unique
climate and soil conditions are intricately related to the correct application of fertilizers.
Fertilizers may not be able to be taken up efficiently by the turf and plants they are
intended for in early spring and late fall on Nantucket or by dry dormant turf in the
summer. This section outlines timing and rates for safe and effective fertilizer
applications. As always, a soil-test analysis is recommended as the basic reference for
determining the soil needs of certain nutrients such as phosphorus and potash. Organic
matter content, from the soil test, and a visual inspection of turf and plants, may be used
to estimate nitrogen needs.
Timing
Because of Nantucket’s climate, fertilizers are best utilized by turfgrass and other
plants after April 15th (tax day) and before October 15th (approximately Columbus Day).
Nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers should not be applied outside of these dates.
Turfgrass and ornamental plants are not as efficient in utilizing nitrogen or phosphorus
when the ground is below 55 degrees Fahrenheit in early spring and do not have enough
time to take up and utilize nutrients when the growing season is coming to an end in late
fall. Because of these two factors, special consideration for fertilizer application should
be made at either end of the growing season. It is critical to remember that Nantucket
33
soils may contain sufficient phosphorus for plant growth and, except when shown by a
soil test to be deficient in phosphorus, it should not be applied routinely. This means that
people using generally available commercial fertilizer blends and composts should check
the label carefully to ensure that it does not contain phosphorus, or, at least, high levels of
phosphorus. It is noted that the use of a quick-release phosphorus fertilizer in a
phosphorus-deficient soil – as shown by a soil test -- may be very useful at the time of
initial seeding. The quick establishment of turf is an important environmental best-
management practice consideration in that it reduces phosphorus movement into water
through soil erosion.
The first spring fertilizer application of the year, if needed, for turf or other
ornamental plantings, should not be made until soil temperatures are above 55 degrees
Fahrenheit. Soil temperatures can be measured at a four-inch depth with a simple,
inexpensive soil thermometer. In the spring, when soil temperatures are lower, any type
of fertilizer that is dependent on higher soil temperatures for microbial activity and
breakdown of nitrogen will not be effective in making that nitrogen available to the plant.
A slow-release product should be chosen that releases at least a portion of its nitrogen
through slow hydrolysis, i.e. the action of water. As an alternative, using a quick-release
form of nitrogen at 0.25 lb/1000 sq ft of N or less can be effective. Temperature-
dependent fertilizers may be applied at this time; however, it should be understood that
most of the nitrogen will not be released until soil temperatures increase. Because soil
temperatures fluctuate greatly in the spring on Nantucket, from April 15th until June 15th,
a turf fertilizer with a minimum of 60 percent slow-release nitrogen content is
recommended.
Additional applications of fertilizer should be made only after an interval
sufficient to gauge the impact of the previous application: normally no less than two
weeks. Again, intervals need to be lengthened if rates of N exceed 0.5 lb/1000 sq ft in
any one application. Impact is seen visually by the vigor of growth and the color of the
grasses.
A second turf-fertilizer application may be made no less than two weeks or even a
month later, after soil temperatures have increased. Additional applications, made with
intervals of two to four weeks after the previous one, may continue throughout the
summer. In droughty periods, application intervals should be extended. Between June
16th and August 31, a fertilizer with a minimum of 50 percent slow-release nitrogen
content is recommended, provided that rate guidance is followed. Late summer
applications of fertilizer may be made for the following reasons: a new lawn in its first
season of growth, a recent renovation, or damage sustained during earlier parts of the
season.
Finally, the last turf-fertilizer application should be made in late summer or early
fall. This is likely the most important application of the year. The fertilizer should be
applied early enough in the fall for the majority of nitrogen to be taken up and utilized by
the plant, with some of the slow-release portion overwintering for use in early spring.
The timing of this application coincides with temperatures having subsided from the
34
summer heat, when most of the nitrogen can be utilized for root growth instead of shoot
growth. Mid to late September is ideal. Between September 1st and October 15th,, a
fertilizer with a minimum of 50 percent slow-release nitrogen content must be used. No
applications of nitrogen or phosphorus should be made after October 15th.
These recommendations presume that there have been normal amounts of natural
precipitation, or during Nantucket’s typically droughty summer months, appropriate
amounts of irrigation water applied.
Application Rates
As explained previously, a soil test and a rigorous visual examination of grasses
and plants are necessary to assess fertilizer needs for a particular plot of land. In
particular, when deciding seasonal nitrogen application rates, a thorough understanding
of existing organic matter content (OM) and whether or not clippings will be recycled
should both factor into total nitrogen inputs. High levels of organic matter, or the
recycling of clippings, may lower significantly the total pounds of N/1000sq ft needed
per season.
The season’s totals of turf fertilizer applications for lawns should not exceed 3 lbs
of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft. Returning clippings can provide 25 percent of required
nitrogen per season. This practice is encouraged where possible, but must be accounted
for, and would be added to each site’s nitrogen total for the year. For example, if a lawn
requires 3 lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft per year, and clippings are returned, the actual
amount of nitrogen fertilizer applied should decrease to between 2 lbs and 2.5 lbs,
dependent on the amount of organic matter in the soil, its maturity, and the overall
condition of the turf.
No one application should contain more than 1.0 lb N/1000 sq ft of which no
more than 0.25 lb is fast-release nitrogen although total rates of 0.5 lb/1000 sq ft of N are
preferred. Fertilizers with high percentages of nitrogen may be difficult to spread at rates
lower than 1.0 lb N/1000 sq ft; consequently, low-percentage fertilizers are
recommended.
As turf matures, it is likely that the storage of nitrogen in the soil will reach a
maximum after ten years and most certainly by 25 years of growth. At this point, the
release of N from the soil may be sufficient for plant growth and little to no additional N
will be needed. For this reason, soil tests remain as important for mature lawns as for
new ones.
Table 1
Table of Fertilizer Application Guidance for Turf Grass
Timing Begin fertilization after April 15th (tax day) and end by October
15th (approximately Columbus Day).
Interval Maintain two weeks or more between applications. Lengthen
35
intervals if applying more than 0.5 lb N/1000 sq ft at any one
time.
Total amount No more than 3.0 lb N/1000 sq ft and no amount of phosphorus
unless need is indicated by a soil test.
Individual amount Less than 0.5 lb N/1000 sq ft per application is preferred. No
more than 1 lb N/1000 sq ft is allowed. If all 3.0 lbs are desired
or needed at rates of 0.5 lb N/1000 sq ft, this implies six
applications over no less than twelve weeks. If all 3.0 lbs are
desired or needed at rates of 1.0 lb N/1000 sq ft, this implies
three applications over no less than twelve weeks.
Fertilizer release type During times of rapid growth and fertilizer uptake, up to 0.25 lb
N/1000 sq ft, of fast-release fertilizer may be used in an
application. The balance must be slow-release fertilizer or, if
the rate is 0.25 lb N/1000 sq ft, no additional fertilizer.
Fertilizer source This guidance is based on the turf’s need for nitrogen and is not
based on the source of the nitrogen, whether natural or
synthetic.
Applying Compost as a Fertilizer
Compost, as discussed in Section 5. “Building the Soil,” is an extremely useful
soil amendment. It contains a variety of organic substances that can contribute to the
build up of organic matter in a soil. Moreover, it provides for the recycling of organic
material rather than its discard. It also contains fertilizer nutrients, unfortunately, often in
higher-than-needed percentages. In this section, the application of compost is discussed
in the context of its potential contribution of nutrients to the soil and, if over applied, their
losses into the water regime. Compost application recommendations are made, also, in
the context of the limits to organic matter percentages that are found in Nantucket’s
native sandy soils. These range around 2.0 – 2.5 percent and rarely exceed 3.5 percent
Table 2 is a listing of various common forms of compost and includes total
amounts of nitrogen and phosphate in each. The percentages in Table 2 are used then in
subsequent tables for application rates.
36
Table 2
Nitrogen and Phosphorus Content of Selected Composts, Percentage
Type of Compost Percent Nitrogen, N Percent Phosphorus as
Phosphate, P2O5
Leaf litter 0.1% 0.05%
Horse Manure 0.5 – 1.5% 0.5 – 1.5%
Lawn & Garden, food waste 1.0 – 1.5% 1 – 1.5%
Dairy manure 1.0 – 1.5% 1 – 1.5%
Feedlot manure 1.0 – 1.5% 1 – 1.5%
Poultry manure 2% 2%
Nitrogen. Table 2 provides an estimate of the nitrogen content, in percent by
weight, of various forms of compost. It is noted that leaf litter is relatively low in
nitrogen, which makes it a good source of organic matter while not disturbing to any
large extent the annual nitrogen application from fertilizer. Animal manures are
relatively high in nitrogen and calculations of nitrogen application rates must include the
contribution from their use. Poultry manure is also high in sodium and may be inimical
to plant growth.
Nitrogen is released as compost decomposes with some of the nitrogen made
available for plant growth. The amount of N released is dependent on the compost
application rate and the percent of nitrogen in the compost. A general rule is that between
10 and 25 percent of the N in compost is released on an annual basis, though this amount
varies with soil temperature, precipitation, and bacterial activity.
Table 3, below, provides an estimate of the total amount of nitrogen contained in
different forms of compost for varying application rates of the compost. The cells with a
highlight represent applications that provide 0.5 lb or less of N/1000 sq ft if the annual
release is 25 percent of the total. Since the recommendation for the total annual rate is
3.0 lbs of N/1000 sq ft, it must be noted that, if applications are made at the maximum
amount of nitrogen recommended per application, 0.5 lb N/1000 sq ft, subsequent
applications may overload the soil with nitrogen. This is because, over time, the un-
released portion of nitrogen from the previous applications may become available for
release at the same time that the subsequent applications are made. It is recommended
that the subsequent applications be less than 0.5 lb N/1000 sq ft.
37
Table 3
Total pounds of nitrogen (N) applied per 1000 ft2 from composts with various
percent N composition and at various application rates. See Table 2 for the
percentage of N in various types of compost.
Depth
per
year
Application
rate
Range of percent nitrogen of compost* and total lbs
nitrogen/1000 square feet*
inches cubic
yards/
acre
tons/
acre
0.1 % 0.5 % 1 % 1.5 % 2 % 2.5 %
1/8 16.9 6.8 0.3 lb 1.6 3.1 4.7 6.2 7.8
1/4 33.8 13.5 0.6 3.1 6.2 9.3 12.4 15.5
1/2 67.5 27 1.2 6.2 12.4 18.6 24.8 31.0
1 135 54 2.5 12.4 24.8 37.2 49.6 62.0
2 270 108 5.0 24.8 49.6 74.4 99.2 124.0
†Adapted from the Composting Council, University of Missouri Extension
*Based on an average compost weight of 800 lb/cubic yard (wet weight)
Updated 9/14/11
Phosphorus: Table 2 also has a column for phosphorus as phosphate, P2O5; it
shows the potential amount of phosphorus that is contained in various forms of compost.
Unlike nitrogen, the majority of phosphorus in compost in many cases is immediately
available. In manure-based composts, up to 85 percent of the phosphorus can be in the
inorganic form and thus readily available to plants. This means that over-application of
manure-sourced composts can lead to immediate run-off of phosphorus into the waters of
Nantucket. Studies show that phosphorus in manure-based composts can substitute for
synthetic forms of phosphorus on nearly a 1:1 basis. With manure-based composts, there
is little margin of error for application rates, especially in the case of phosphorus. Special
attention to depth and rate is imperative.
38
Since plant-derived composts, especially leaf litter, are lower in phosphorus
content, they are recommended for use on most Nantucket soils, which are close to being
at optimum phosphorus levels. Table 4 presents the phosphorus amounts that can be had
from application of various forms of compost and for various depths. The amounts are
based on 100-percent availability. If availability is less than 100 percent, then the
available amount will be that shown in the table multiplied by the decimal form of the
percentage available. For example, if the 1.6 lb compost was applied at 1/8 inch and was
only 40 percent available, then the actual application would be 1.6 lb times 0.4 equals
0.64 lbs.
Table 4
Total pounds of phosphate (P₂O₅) applied per 1000 ft2 in composts with various
percent P composition and at various application rates. See Table 2 for the
percentage of P in various types of compost.
Depth
per
year
Application
rate
Range of percent P₂O₅ of compost* and total lbs of
P₂O₅/1000 square feet*
inches Cubic
yards/
acre
tons/
acre
0.05
percent
0.5
percent
1
percent
1.5
percent
2
percent
2.5
percent
1/8 16.9 6.8 0.2 1.6 3.1 4.7 6.2 7.8
1/4 33.8 13.5 0.3 3.1 6.2 9.3) 12.4 15.5
1/2 67.5 27 0.6 6.2 12.4 18.6 24.8 31.0
1 135 54 1.2 12.4 24.8 37.2 49.6 62.0
2 270 108 2.5 24.8 49.6 74.4 99.2 124.0
*Based on an average compost weight of 800 lb/cubic yard (wet weight)
Calculations
A fair question is “how does one get from one column in the tables to the other?”
An example calculation may help. The numbers in bold are those that can be found in
either table.
For compost that contains 0.5 percent of either N or P that is applied at ½ inch of depth:
39
67.5 cubic yards/acre * 800 lbs/cubic yard (wet weight) = 54,000 lbs/acre (27
tons/acre);
54,000 lbs of compost/acre at 0.5% = 54,000 lbs compost/acre * 0.005 = 270
lbs/acre;
To convert from lbs/acre to lbs/1000 square feet: 270 lbs/acre/43.56 = 6.2 lbs
N/1000 square feet. The factor 43.56 is the number of 1000 sq ft in an acre, i.e.
an acre is 43,560 sq ft.
Foliar Fertilizer
Foliar fertilizers are amenable to low application rates, including spoon feeding.
For this Nantucket BMP, a foliar fertilizer is defined as any fertilizer product designed
for uptake into a plant through its leaves; it is typically sprayed directly on top of the
plant. This practice is popular with golf course managers and some gardeners on
Nantucket. These products are not intended to reach the soil, but are to be taken up by
the plant directly through foliage although some nitrogen is ultimately lost to
volatilization. It is noted that some of this fertilizer may reach the soil for root uptake.
For the plant to take up the nitrogen quickly, the form of nitrogen must be fast release.
Foliar fertilization consists of fertilizing turfgrass, ornamentals, and other plants
through the application of a fine mist containing diluted and low concentrations of
soluble quick-release fertilizer. This is one method of fertilizing with many applications
of very small amounts of fertilizer and is sometimes referred to as “spoon feeding” and
can be done as often as weekly or bi-weekly during the growing season. It is noted that
this application rate is an acceptable exception to the guidance for those following the
balance of the guidance on foliar fertilization. When the goal is root uptake of fertilizer,
spoon feeding of granular fertilizers may be done independently of foliar fertilization.
When using foliar fertilizer, it is imperative that amounts of nitrogen be based on
only what the plant can take up and utilize at each feeding. Rates of foliar fertilizer must
not exceed 0.25 lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft for any one application. Applications
should be made a minimum of two weeks apart at any higher rates. Weekly applications
can be made at lower rates between 0.10 and 0.125 lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft. These
rates may be impossible to achieve with granular fertilizers and should be applied only
with liquid products in aqueous mists.
Typically, foliar fertilizer is taken up by the plant tissue in a matter of hours and is
not intended to provide a longer release of nitrogen or other nutrients. Because of the
low rates applied, the majority of foliar fertilizer does not reach the soil. This greatly
lowers the likelihood of nitrogen or phosphorus reaching soils and leaching or running
off the surface.
Rates of phosphorus should not exceed 0.25 lb of actual phosphorus in any one
foliar fertilizer application, and should only be used if a soil test shows a phosphorus
deficiency or if seeding is taking place. See Section 10. ‘Turfgrass Establishment and
40
Renovation Guidelines’ for more information about phosphorus rates and applications for
turf establishment.
Fertilizer Calculations and Spreader Calibration: A Step by Step Guide
It is very important that fertilizer spreaders are correctly and regularly calibrated
to ensure correct application rates for turf fertilizers. Spreader manufacture is not a
precise process and, moreover, corrosion or caking can alter substantially the settings on
a spreader. Hence there is a need for periodic re-calibration. Once fertilization
requirements and rates for each application, are determined, calculations need to be made
based on proper spreader calibration to ensure correct application rate of the fertilizer.
Spreaders should be calibrated, at a minimum, once annually for each different product
being applied. During periods of high use, a fertilizer spreader should be calibrated more
often Detailed step by step instructions for spreader calibration are included in an
Appendix (Appendix 6). It is noted again that fertilizers with high-percentages of
nitrogen may not spread uniformly in most spreaders. This is because only a limited
number of granules may be released in any one pass of the spreader.
The Weather Factor: The Importance of Avoiding Heavy Rainfall
Weather conditions and fertilizer are intricately and forever linked. Earlier in the
BMP, application timing of fertilizer was discussed in regard to season and soil
temperatures. Rainfall is as important to the breakdown of some fertilizers as is soil
temperature. Large rainfall events or excessive irrigation coupled with improper fertilizer
applications are one of the main causes for surface runoff and/or leaching of fertilizers.
Inexpensive soil-moisture probes can be used to judge the existing amounts of soil water
and to determine additional amounts needed to ensure moist conditions at root depth.
Prior to any application of fertilizer, a weather forecast (The National Weather
Service is available at www.weather.gov; www.ackweather.com and several other
commercial services are readily available) needs to be consulted. This consultation is not
just for the day of application, but also for seven days following application. A long-
range forecast can alert the applicator to upcoming storms and nor’easters, temperatures,
and other factors that relate to fertilizer performance. Fertilizer applications that contain
nitrogen or phosphorus should not be made prior to any forecast that calls for more than
½” of rainfall. Additionally, if the rain is forecasted to be ½” or less, but subject to be in
intense form – such as a downpour during a thunderstorm – then fertilization should be
postponed.
‘Watering-in’ is a technique used to begin the breakdown of water-soluble
nitrogen or for any slow-release nitrogen (SRN) that depends on hydrolysis for release.
‘Watering-in’ can also reduce nitrogen loss from volatilization and can decrease the risk
of runoff. Between 1/10” and ¼” of rain or irrigation is sufficient for the watering-in of
fertilizer. Not all rain events can be accurately forecast, especially on Nantucket where
many times rain forms in the ocean and radar doesn’t pick up the bands. However, it is
the responsibility of the applicator or homeowner to do their due diligence with regard to
41
studying the weather report prior to fertilization. A rain gauge that measures the physical
amount of rain that fell during a storm helps to distinguish rainfall from heavy fog or
other high-humidity events.
Special Care and Clean-Up
Special care and cleanup must be taken when applying fertilizer. If any fertilizer
spills or is spread on a sidewalk, driveway, etc., it must be swept and removed
immediately. The excess removed should be added back to the bag or the spreader and
used in remaining areas to fertilize. Prior to fertilizing a lawn or other turfgrass area, any
exposed drains used for storm water, etc. should be covered with a small tarp or plywood
to prevent fertilizer from falling into the drains. Again, any fertilizer remaining on the
plywood or tarp should be added back to the bag or used in other areas to be fertilized.
Record Keeping
Keeping proper records of fertilization applications is necessary to track the
amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and other nutrients applied to any area. Record keeping
also allows the applicator to compare actual results and performance at the end of the
season versus what was planned for in the spring. Changes can, and should, be made for
the following season to make better use of any products applied. Records should be kept
for a minimum of seven years. When documenting applications, the following
information should be recorded:
Date,
Names of applicators,
Product used – trade name and analysis,
Rate – product per 1,000 sq ft and nitrogen, phosphorus, etc. per 1,000 sq ft etc.,
Keep a copy of the label to give information on the following:
o Nitrogen sources, types, and percentages,
o Phosphorus sources, types, and percentages,
o Other nutrient types and percentages,
Area(s) treated,
Size of area(s),
Weather conditions including temperature, rainfall, wind speed,
Spreader or sprayer setting,
Amount of product used,
Any additional comments regarding application.
A sample sheet for record keeping is included in Appendix 6.
Examples of Three Turf Fertilizer Management Programs
In the appendix (Appendix 7), there are presented three different fertilizer
programs that were designed for a homeowner-maintained lawn that is under-performing.
The hypothetical soil-analysis test for this plot had a pH of 5.3, which is below the
42
optimum range; it was very high for phosphorous; very low for potassium; and low for
magnesium. Organic matter was 3.4 percent, which may be as good as we can get for
Nantucket.
These fertilizer management programs are presented for turf on a typical
Nantucket soil:
an organic fertilizer-based program;
a synthetic fertilizer-based program; and
a hybrid program based on a combination of organic and synthetic fertilizers.
Each program provides recommendations for type of fertilizer, application rates, and
timing of applications and related cultural practices.
Source Material
This section was written by Nantucket landscapers led by Mark Lucas. It was reviewed
carefully by the external reviewers listed in the Acknowledgements section.
43
Section 9
Turf Establishment and Renovation Guidelines
Detailed steps for establishing a lawn from seed or sod, and for renovating a damaged or
underperforming lawn, are explained.
The importance of the soil test as the basis for determining nutrient and other soil
deficiencies, and correcting them, during establishment or renovation is emphasized.
Special care when including phosphorus application for germination and establishment is
emphasized.
Using certified seed and pre-germination of seed are recommended.
Careful monitoring of soil moisture and appropriate watering practices during seed
germination and establishment are stressed.
Recommendations for follow up fertilization and mowing timing and height are provided.
While many of the principles for establishing and renovating lawns are the same
as for maintaining them, special care needs to be taken to avoid the run off or leaching of
fertilizers, especially when applying seed to bare soil, while roots are becoming
established. The following guidelines, when followed, should ensure that the fertilizer
application necessary for establishment and renovation of turf, will be taken up by the
turf for which it is intended, and not run off or leach.
Late summer or early fall is the ideal time of the year to establish or renovate a
lawn on Nantucket. During these times, soil temperatures are still warm, there is plenty
of sun, and there tends to be more moisture available for maximum seed germination.
The ideal starting time of late summer allows time for plants to establish roots through
the fall and become mature enough to survive the winter. Establishing a lawn in the
spring or summer almost always requires more water, fertilizer, and possibly herbicides
to control competition from weeds that are more prevalent in the spring and summer than
in the fall. If late summer or early fall is not a feasible time for establishing a new lawn,
consideration should be made for establishing the lawn with sod instead of seed.
Establishing a Lawn from Seed: A Step-by-Step Guide
1. Obtain a soil test – A comprehensive test is recommended to obtain as much
information as possible. At a minimum, the following items should be analyzed:
phosphorus, potassium, pH, estimated nitrogen release (ENR) for the potential
availability of nitrogen, and organic-matter percentage. Having a baseline test
will help determine the amount of soil modification necessary. Refer to Section
4. “Soil Nutrient Analysis: The Importance of the Soil Test” for more information
on obtaining and applying the soil-test analysis.
2. Rough grade the site – Grade to remove stumps, large rocks, and debris. Fill in
any low areas and grade away high areas. Areas should be contoured to achieve a
desired surface drainage pattern. Always grade away from structures.
3. Modify the soil – Amend the soil based on the soil-test analysis providing a 6” -8”
depth of amended topsoil for a healthy turf root zone. Soils, if necessary, should
44
4. Adjust pH – Adjust pH if necessary. A pH between 6.0 and 7.0 is preferred for
most turfgrasses. Dolomitic or high-calcium lime may be necessary to correct
calcium and magnesium deficiencies, or to raise soil pH. Use a calcitic (non-Mg)
limestone if magnesium is not needed. Incorporate lime into the root zone, which
is generally the top 4-6 inches.
5. Fine grade the site – This is an important step since it will create the final surface
for seeding. If an irrigation system is installed, final grading should follow its
installation. If any further incorporation of compost and/or fertilizer is needed,
such as in step 6, final grading should occur after incorporation.
6. Apply a starter fertilizer and/or compost for seed germination – If a soil test
reveals a deficiency, a starter fertilizer or compost can be applied after
germination. If compost is incorporated into the soil prior to seeding, and
depending on the phosphorus content of the compost, a starter fertilizer will likely
not be necessary. For successful seedling germination, and subsequent seedling
root growth, phosphorus is a necessary nutrient. If available phosphate in the soil
is found to be low, phosphorus may be applied after germination according to soil
test recommendations. Though phosphorus in the soil is not very mobile, surface
runoff of phosphorus is a concern, especially near freshwater wetlands. If a
nitrogen source is used, it should conform to the guidelines stated in section 8. It
is preferable to fertilize with a nitrogen source after germination when the plant
will require nitrogen for growth, as it does not need or take up nitrogen until after
germination.
7. Seed – Certified seed is strongly recommended to guarantee cultivar authenticity.
See Section 7. “Turfgrass Blends and Selection” for further information regarding
different seed species, mixes and blends. Proper seeding rate is also very
important. Applying seed quantity above or below the recommended rate can
create problems while establishing a lawn. If the soil is dry, it should be lightly
irrigated before applying seed. Spread seed and lightly rake for ideal seed-to-soil
contact. Maximizing seed-to-soil contact for good germination is critical.
Rolling is another option after raking to help insure that the seed, and any
fertilizer, are more likely to stay in place following irrigation and/or rainfall. If
hydro-seeding, be sure to specify seed mix, rate, and fertilizer content, if any, of
the hydro-seed solution.
8. Protect the seed – It is very important that seed not dry out between application
and germination. One good way to protect the seed is to apply it as hydroseed,
45
9. Irrigate – Hand water or irrigate frequently (2-3 times a day depending on weather
conditions) to a shallow depth, to ensure that the seed remains moist at all times.
Seed that consistently dries out after it has been moistened is less likely to
germinate. It is important to keep the soil moist, but not saturated, until seedlings
are about an inch high. As seedlings grow, reduce the frequency of watering, but
increase the duration of each watering to promote recharging the root zone, which
encourages root development. At this time it is also important to allow the
surface to dry between irrigation events.
10. Mow – A lawn should be mown for the first time when the grass is a third higher
than the desired mowing height. For example, if the desired height is 2 inches,
mow for the first time when it reaches between 2.5 and 3 inches.
11. Fertilize – After the first or second mowing, a follow-up fertilizer application is
recommended with a 25 to 50-percent WSN form of nitrogen. The recommended
application rate is 0.5 lb N per 1000 sq ft. There is no reason to apply
phosphorus at this time unless a soil test indicates a deficiency. During the year
of establishment, no more than 3.0 lbs N/ 1000 sq ft should be applied.
Establishing a Lawn with Sod: Step by Step
In some instances, selecting sod over seed to establish a lawn may be appropriate.
For example, if a lawn needs to be established in late fall, using sod is a better alternative
to establishing from seed. The following lists a series of steps to take when establishing a
lawn from sod.
(Repeat steps 1 – 5 from above)
6. Install the sod – Quality sod should be chosen, and because it is transported from
off-island sources, special care and attention needs to be paid to keep it from being
damaged before it is laid. Prevent drying out or over-heating prior to installation.
Sod should be laid as soon as possible from the day that it was cut. Soil attached to
46
sod should be as close as possible in texture and other physical properties as the soil
of the prepared sod bed. Sod can often be grown in soils high in clay, and the clay
‘layer’ is cut with the turf. This clay layer may impede air and water movement and
also reduce the uptake of nutrients. Ask the supplier to supply as little clay as
possible. The sod bed should be irrigated to a depth of 3-4 inches prior to laying the
sod to promote rapid establishment. Be sure to stagger seams and to pull sod pieces
close together to reduce the possibility of gaps developing between pieces. These can
be sites for weeds to develop later.
7. Roll and hand water – The sod should be lightly rolled to smooth out any
inconsistencies caused by foot traffic prior to watering. The sod should be hand-
watered immediately after rolling.
8. Irrigate – Sod, once installed, should be irrigated regularly to keep the soil moist
and promote root establishment. Frequency and amount of irrigation should be
closely monitored to keep the sod from drying out and the root-zone moist. As with
establishing seed, more frequent lighter watering is required at first, to keep the sod
moist, with less frequent but deeper watering to replenish the root zone, as the sod
sends down roots as it becomes established. Weather, especially wind and
precipitation, must, as always, be carefully monitored and factored into adjusting
irrigation.
9. Should gaps develop in the seams, top dress those areas with a mix of compost and
grass seed that is compatible with the newly installed sod.
10. Fertilize – Approximately 3-4 weeks after installation, when the sod has begun to
root, apply an application of a fertilizer in accordance with the guidelines in section 8;
phosphorus should be included only if a soil test indicates a deficiency.
Renovating an Existing Lawn: Step by Step
Renovation allows for improvements to be made to an existing lawn without the
need to re-establish the entire lawn or to start “from scratch.” Renovation is typically
chosen to correct problems with existing lawns. Underlying problems that are causing a
lawn to under-perform need to be identified before starting the project and then corrected
during the renovation process. The following lists a series of steps for renovating an
existing lawn.
1. Diagnose and correct – Determine the underlying problems requiring the
renovation and correct them. Underlying problems may include poor soil, poor
drainage, soil layering, weed content above acceptable levels, or improper grasses
for Nantucket.
2. Obtain a soil test –Obtain a soil test 3 to 4 weeks ahead of work, if possible, to
allow time for any adjustments to soil pH. Any deficiencies in the existing soil
should be corrected during the renovation process. Refer to Section 4. “Soil
47
3. Prepare for amendments and seed. If thatch levels are high, aggressive aeration or
de-thatching may be necessary to prepare a good seed bed. The lawn should be
mown very low, to one inch or lower to allow for the new seed to compete for
sunlight and water within the existing stand of grass.
4. Add soil amendments. Top dress and incorporate compost into the soil if the soil
test indicates low organic matter (OM). See Section 5. “Building the Soil” for
compost rates. Core aeration must be done prior to top dressing with compost to
allow it to penetrate below the existing layer of grass. A phosphorus-based
fertilizer can be applied if levels are deficient, and nitrogen (N), should be applied
in accordance with the guidelines in section 8.
5. Seed – Spread seed, lightly rake, and roll the area if possible for good soil-to-seed
contact. The seed should have adequate protection from the existing turf, even if
that turf has died. Seed can be pre-germinated for quicker establishment. To pre-
germinate seed, place it in a cloth bag, and soak in a barrel of water for at least 12
hours, depending on grass species selection. Aerate by lifting the bag out of the
water and placing it back several times every few hours. Spread seed out to dry
just sufficiently enough to go through the spreader before application with a
spreader.
6. Irrigate – Irrigate in the same manner as for new seedlings to ensure that the seed
remains moist at all times while germinating. Overall irrigation needs will be
reduced if the seed has been pre-germinated.
7. Mow – The lawn should be mown for the first time when the new grass is a third
to one-half higher than the desired mowing height.
8. Fertilize – Approximately 1-3 weeks after germination, the lawn can be fertilized
in accordance with the guidelines in section 8. This application rate should be no
more than 0.5 lb N per 1000 sq ft. Phosphorus should not be applied at this time
unless a soil test indicates a deficiency. During the year of establishment, no
more than 3 lbs N per 1000 sq ft should be applied.
Section 9. Bibliography
Best Management Practices for Lawn and Landscape Turf. University of
Massachusetts, Extension,
2010-2011 Professional Guide For IPM In Turf For Massachusetts, 104 pp.
(UMass BMP)
Sachs, Paul D., 1996, Handbook of Successful Ecological Lawn Care. The
Edaphic Press, Newbury, Vermont.
48
Section 10
Turf Care Cultural Practices
Cultural practices for turf maintenance include mowing, aeration, de-thatching, top-
dressing, and spiking/slicing.
Mowing height and frequency should follow the one-third rule. Sharp mower blades help
maintain healthy, attractive turf.
Leaving clippings in place is recommended. Returning clippings can add up to 33 percent of
nitrogen (N) needs per season, allowing N fertilizer application to be reduced accordingly.
Core aeration removes plugs of soil, alleviating compaction, removing thatch, and enhancing
the movement of air and water to plant roots.
Top-dressing is the spreading of compost or other material over established turf: one benefit
of which can be to increase organic matter content. Core aerate prior to top-dressing.
Mechanical de-thatching reduces excess matting below the plant crown, enhancing water
and air penetration into the turf.
Spiking/Slicing is the mechanical cutting of small vertical slices into the soil, enhancing
water and air penetration into the turf.
Mowing, core aerating, dethatching, and top-dressing, are all examples of cultural
practices. The following practices help maintain healthy turf, and some directly reduce
rates of fertilizer applications.
Mowing
Mowing is obviously the most basic cultural practice used to manage turf and
plays a large role in its health. Improper mowing, however, can cause tremendous stress
and damage to turf. The following mowing practices directly influence the vigor and
health of turf, and in some cases, reduce rates of annual fertilizer amounts.
Mowing height. Mowing height is of primary importance to the health of turf.
Some Nantucket lawns are mown at lower than optimum height for aesthetic reasons.
Unfortunately, mowing at a lower height can damage turf, particularly for certain grass
species, by limiting root growth and production, carbohydrate uptake, and stress
tolerance. Mowing higher, particularly during times of extreme heat or drought, is
especially important to turf vigor. For example, if mowing is done at a height of 2 inches
instead of 3 inches in July, water-use efficiency may decrease, fungal pressures may
increase, fertilizer requirements may increase, and tolerance to heat and drought may be
reduced. Fertility requirements increase with certain species when they are mown too
short, due to most of the nutrients being utilized for shoot development instead of other
parts of the plant, such as roots. Simply raising the height to 3 inches may decrease, or
eliminate these stresses.
Sharp blades/Clean cuts. Proper blade, reel, or bed-knife sharpening is also
important for healthy turf. The importance of sharp mowing blades cannot be over
emphasized. The tearing or ripping of grass blades, instead of leaving clean, sharp cuts,
creates unintended wound surfaces where pathogens can more easily enter and spread
disease. The jagged ends also increase water loss. These wounds also give a ‘brownish’
49
look to the lawn until the grass grows out past the point of the wound. Mower blades
should be sharpened after every 8 hours of use for professional lawn mowing, if possible.
Mowing frequency. Removal of more than one third of top growth at any given
time can directly slow or stop root growth. Because the degree of root growth is crucial
to the success of a healthy turf, whenever possible mowing frequency should be based on
how fast or slow the grass is growing, adhering to the ‘one-third rule’. To give an
example of how to follow the one-third rule, if a three-inch minimum height is desired,
then the lawn should be mowed when the grass is 4 inches tall. This is a maximum and
mowing may occur at any time provided that three inches remains after mowing.
Recycling clippings
Recycling clippings over the course of the growing season can add up to 33
percent (1.0 lb N per 1000 sq ft) of the annual nitrogen, N, requirement. Mulching
mowers, designed to chop mown grass into fine pieces, not only recycle N but also
increase mowing efficiency as bags don’t need to be emptied or clippings hauled away.
Because lawn clippings from either a mulching mower, or a reel mower, are composed of
easily degradable compounds, they break down rapidly and do not contribute to thatch
buildup.
Core Aeration
Core aerating the soil is one of the most beneficial cultural practices for
compacted lawn or turf surfaces, especially on heavy-use lawns, playing fields, and
irrigated lawns. It not only alleviates surface compaction but also increases microbial
activity and allows oxygen to enter while carbon dioxide and other harmful gases exit.
Aeration also helps reduce excess thatch. Thatch is necessary at small levels to cushion
the crown of the plant and provide some water and nutrient-holding capacity. However,
excess thatch levels lead to increased water requirements, decreased fertilizer efficiency,
decreased root vigor, increased insect pressure, and more disease susceptibility. High-use
lawns or playing fields are recommended to be aerated a minimum of once a season.
Aeration is preferred in the fall when lower temperatures will aid in recovery.
De-thatching/Verticutting
De-thatching, also known as verticutting, is a practice that uses vertical blades to
slice through the turf canopy and, depending on the depth setting, into the thatch. It also
helps clean the surface, and mat area (zone between crown and thatch) of any
accumulated debris. This practice can contribute to reduced water use, increase the
efficiency of fertilizer uptake, and decrease the incidences and severity of turf diseases.
50
Top-dressing
Top-dressing is the application of a layer of material, such as sand or compost,
across the turf surface or into the root zone after core aeration. The sand or compost is
then brushed into the turf canopy and eventually finds its way into the thatch layer. Top-
dressing can help dilute thatch, provide protection for the crown of the plant, and smooth
out low areas. Top-dressing can increase nitrogen utilization and water infiltration while
decreasing water use. Top-dressing with compost also adds beneficial microbes and
bacteria to increase microbial activity while building the soil. Compost usually contains
nitrogen and phosphorus, so it is important to know the amount of each before making
applications. Compost is typically low in nitrogen, but, depending on the source, can be
higher in phosphorus. Top-dressing immediately after core aeration can be very
beneficial, and there is less chance that compost will form ‘bands’ of phosphorus or
nitrogen compared to repeated surface applications.
Spiking/Slicing
Spiking or slicing is the cutting of spikes or slices, 1-3 inches deep into the
subsurface. While these practices do not relieve compaction or control thatch, they do
allow oxygen to enter the root zone, improve water infiltration, and provide a good
environment for over-seeding and repairs.
Section 10. Bibliography
Best Management Practices for Lawn and Landscape Turf. University of
Massachusetts, Extension,.
2010-2011 Professional Guide For IPM In Turf For Massachusetts, 104 pp.
(UMass BMP).
Sachs, Paul D., 1996, Handbook of Successful Ecological Lawn Care. The
Edaphic Press, Newbury, Vermont.
51
Section 11
Fertility Guidelines for Perennial Gardens, Ornamental Trees and Shrubs
Fertility guidelines for herbaceous perennial gardens and ornamental trees and shrubs are
recommended and are based on the principles of building healthy soil.
The importance of soil tests as the basis for adjusting soil with fertilizer or amendments and
for maintaining proper soil pH is stressed.
Compost addition is recommended for increasing soil organic matter and nutrient content,
increasing soil microbial activity, and increasing soil nutrient and moisture retention
capacity.
The importance of phosphorus for flowering plants, its presence and availability in
Nantucket soils, and its harmful impact on fresh water resources is emphasized.
The ingredients of compost are highly variable with respect to their content of nutrients:
nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Knowledge of nutrient content is derived from labels
of commercially available composts and from knowledge of the compost source for home-
produced composts. If in doubt about nutrient content, the compost should be tested before
it is applied to a Nantucket soil.
Perennial Gardens and Mixed Borders
Herbaceous perennial gardens, or mixed borders, are popular components of
many residential Nantucket landscapes. A mixed border may consist of ornamental
shrubs, grasses, and perennial flowering plants. The growth and vitality of these types of
plantings depends on some of the same principles that apply to turf, with a notable
exception. Most perennials, shrubs, and other ornamental plants do not require
significant amounts of supplemental fertilizer, if the soil is well amended with nutrient-
providing organic matter, and a proper pH is maintained. Annual or seasonal fertilizing
may not be necessary in a perennial or mixed garden with well-amended soil. Fertilizer
should only be applied if a lack of plant health or vitality has been observed and after a
soil test has identified a specific deficiency and recommended how to correct it.
Building the soil by preparing a proper depth of well-amended and well-drained
topsoil with the correct pH, ideal percentage of organic-matter content, and essential
nutrients is the key to successful ornamental gardens. The recommended depth of
amended topsoil for a perennial garden or mixed border is 8- 12 inches. The proper
amount of organic matter and other soil amendments needed is determined by the soil-
test analysis. A soil test is the only way to know exactly what a garden soil may need,
and must be consulted before applying any nutrients, especially the three macronutrients:
nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. A follow-up soil test is recommended
approximately eight weeks after the addition of compost and any other nutrients to allow
any amendments to stabilize and provide the most accurate assessment of nutrient levels
in the soil. Gardeners should be aware that many forms of compost contain excessive
levels of phosphorus and should only be applied with knowledge of specific content and
source. The reader should refer to Section 4. ‘Soil Nutrient Analysis’ for details on
obtaining, and interpreting, a soil test. After a new garden is established, it is
recommended to test the soil every year to determine any deficiencies and prescribe any
fertilizers necessary to maintain plant health and vitality.
52
Special care needs to be taken if applying granular fertilizers to gardens, mixed
borders, or landscape plantings, because fertilizer applied on bare soil between plants,
makes it more likely to run off before being absorbed by the plants it is intended for.
When applying fertilizer to garden beds it is recommended to mix the fertilizer into the
top two inches of the garden soil to discourage surface runoff.
The recommended pH for most garden soils is 5.5-6.5. The optimum
recommended organic matter (OM) content is 3 percent for Nantucket. As noted before,
this is somewhat below that of soils with more clay and silt content than exists on
Nantucket. Where topsoil has been imported, the optimum OM level may be somewhat
higher. Compost is the recommended amendment for increasing OM and although the
amount added should depend on the soil-test analysis and the depth of soil desired,
recommended practice for most sandy Nantucket topsoil is to incorporate an inch or two
of compost when preparing an 8- 12-inch depth of garden soil. As suggested previously,
vegetation-based (leaf litter) compost is preferred on Nantucket.
Of the three macro-nutrients included in most fertilizer blends, phosphorus (P) is
one of the most important for success with flowering plants. Phosphorus is a limiting
environmental nutrient for fresh water wetlands, so extra care needs to be taken before
applying this nutrient in Nantucket gardens, especially near any of our many freshwater
ponds. Many of Nantucket’s soils test naturally high for P, and therefore, phosphorus
should not be added to the soil unless a soil test shows a deficiency. If a soil test shows a
P deficiency, follow the recommended rate and the product suggested to correct it.
Refer to section 2. “Nitrogen and Phosphorus and Plant Growth” for more
information on the variables of phosphorus availability in Nantucket soils. One
important note is that pH levels influence phosphorous availability. “Fertilizer Types and
Sources” in the appendix gives details on sources and types of phosphorus fertilizers. A
quick-release source of phosphorus such as “triple super phosphate,” popular in garden
uses, is not recommended for Nantucket gardens unless a soil test specifically
recommends it.
As with turf, climate plays an important role in the timing of fertilizer applications
for ornamentals. Supplemental fertilizers, if necessary, are best applied in the spring after
active growth of plants is observed. The time of active spring growth on Nantucket
ranges between mid April to mid May, or later, depending on the exact location and
microclimate of the garden.
A top dressing of compost, applied and mixed into the soil in spring or fall, may
be enough to replenish soil nutrient levels when or if they go down over time. Again, a
soil test analysis should be the basis for deciding how much compost to add.
53
Ornamental Trees and Shrubs
As with other landscape plantings, proper soil analysis and preparation is the key
to the success of ornamental trees and shrubs on Nantucket. With a well-amended,
nutrient-balanced soil, supplemental fertilizers for most trees and shrubs may not be
necessary and if applied unnecessarily or inappropriately may leach or run off to harm
Nantucket’s water resources.
The bibliography lists sources for further information on the wide range of
ornamental plants used on Nantucket.
Section 11. Bibliography
Di-Sabato-Aust, T. The Well –Tended Perennial Garden. 1998. Timber Press,
Portland Oregon.
Dirr, M. A. Manual of Woody Landscape Plants: Their Identification, Ornamental
Characteristics, Culture, Propagation, and Use. 1998, Stripes Publishing LLC,
Chicago, IL.
Cullina, W. Understanding Perennials. 2009. Houghton, Mifflin, Harcourt.
Brooklyn Botanic Gardener’s Desk Reference, 1998. Henry Holt.
Horticulture Gardener’s Desk Reference. 1996, Macmillan.
Bricknell, C., Ed., The American Horticultural Society Encyclopedia of
Gardening, 2003. DK Publishing New York, NY; also other AHS links:
http://www.ahs.org/publications/index.htm.
54
Section 12
The Role of Irrigation
Placement of the irrigation system should be included in the initial site planning process and
included in the final as-built plan.
Irrigation zones should be tailored to the requirements of specific plantings including turf,
gardens, or mixed borders.
Irrigation water should not penetrate below the root zone. A simple soil probe or spade can
be used to determine depth of moisture from irrigation.
Regular monitoring and adjustment of irrigation control clocks over the course of the
growing season is important to provide adequate moisture for plants without overwatering.
Excess irrigation contributes to run off or leaching of fertilizer and wastes water.
Special monitoring of irrigation at times of planting, fertilization, and renovation is essential
for promoting healthy plant growth and avoiding run off or leaching.
Turn irrigation systems off during periods of adequate rainfall. Avoid watering impervious
surfaces such as sidewalks, driveways and roads.
Seasonal record keeping of natural precipitation and clock adjustments is recommended.
Properly designed, monitored, and maintained irrigation systems play an
important role in managed landscapes and gardens on Nantucket. Proper water
management promotes healthy landscapes, while reducing the leaching of fertilizers into
our groundwater, ponds, and harbors.
System Design
The design of an irrigation system for a new landscape should be based on careful
site planning as outlined in Section 3. The location and separation of the system into
different zones should be tailored to specific site conditions as well as the water needs of
the different aspects of a proposed landscape. For example, a lawn, or the part of it on a
windy exposed site will require more water than a lawn in an area more protected from
the wind. Turf has different water requirements than a shrub border, or a perennial
garden. Some shrubs popularly used in Nantucket gardens, hydrangeas for example,
need more water than others that are more adapted to Nantucket’s conditions. A border
of native plants may not need much water at all after becoming established.
An as-built map or diagram showing the numbered irrigation zones of the
particular landscape and garden is a useful tool for both the professional landscaper and
the homeowner for effectively understanding and monitoring their system. Keeping
irrigation clock labels properly updated over time and when changes are made to systems
is important.
System Monitoring
An important irrigation factor to consider is that new landscapes initially require
more water as turf and plants are becoming established. Close observation of watering
needs over time will usually lead to less water being used as plants and turf mature,
except, of course, during times of extreme heat and drought.
55
Regular monitoring of the irrigation system over the duration of the growing
season is fundamental to using water efficiently and avoiding over watering, which may
increase the possibility of fertilizer leaching or surface run off. Coordination of watering
with fertilizer applications is especially important during the growing season. For
example, when a turf fertilizer has just been applied, providing the correct amount of
water to replenish just the root zone is crucial in avoiding leaching of the fertilizer to
groundwater. The depth of the root zone and penetration of water from irrigation or
rainfall can be easily determined with a simple soil probe or shovel. In an inconspicuous
spot or at the exposed edge of a bed, one exposes a small vertical face of soil and
measures the depth to dry soil.
A recommended component of monitoring irrigation is to keep a written journal
of clock adjustments and weather conditions over the growing season. Adjusting the
landscape-irrigation system during the growing season so that irrigation supplements
natural rainfall patterns is a recommended practice. It is important to avoid over
watering, which may harm the health of turf and gardens, as well as Nantucket’s water
resources, especially just after fertilizers are applied. The simplest way to avoid excess
watering is to remember to turn your irrigation clock to “water off” when it is raining.
Wait to turn it back on until conditions warrant.
In summary, irrigation systems are very useful components of successfully
managed landscapes and gardens. The importance of seasonal and long-term monitoring
and clock adjustment in conjunction with plant-growth needs, and weather conditions are
both important aspects of a successful irrigation system. One should only use watering
recommendations that are based on weather information
(http://www.nrcc.cornell.edu/grass/). Even better is to have your own rain gauge to
adjust watering recommendations to the specific amounts of rainfall at your site.
Irrigation-system design based on specific site conditions, regular maintenance
and adjustment over time, and especially close monitoring and record keeping during the
growing season will all help direct fertilizers to the plants they are intended for while
promoting healthy landscapes with minimal risk to nutrient run off or leaching to our
ponds, harbors and ground water.
Source Material for Section 12
This section was written by Seth Rutherford of Waterworks of Nantucket.
56
Section 13
Alternative Naturalistic Style Practices
Native plants are plants that occur naturally in an area and were not introduced by people.
Naturalized plants were introduced by people and have adapted to natural conditions.
Preserving existing areas of desirable native plants is encouraged in the site planning
process.
Native or naturalized plants are recommended in managed landscapes as ornamental plants,
borders, or buffers.
Native and naturalized plants are well adapted to local conditions, and are generally easy to
maintain. They do not require fertilizer or irrigation beyond establishment, are often
resistant to diseases and pests, and support native biodiversity.
Invasive exotic plants are introduced species that aggressively displace native species.
Removal of invasive exotic species is recommended where possible.
The naturalistic style of landscape design and management takes its cues from
existing plant communities and conditions and an understanding of how they develop and
change over time. It is an approach that is based on knowledge of and adaptation to self-
sustaining landscapes that exist all around us on Nantucket. It helps to maintain the
“Nantucket Look.”
Naturalistic-style landscapes require little to no alteration of existing conditions,
no irrigation, and no fertilizer inputs. Entire individual properties can be designed and
managed in a naturalistic style, or, more realistically, some naturalistic style practices can
be incorporated as components of higher-maintenance landscapes. Thorough site
assessment and planning determines how much of a particular property is desired or
needed for fertilizer-dependent turf or plantings, and how much can be managed
naturalistically, whether restored or left undisturbed.
The principles and practices of naturalistic landscaping are closely related to the
science of ecological restoration but on a smaller scale. For further information on
ecological restoration and alternatives to lawns, refer to the bibliography for a list of
recommended reading.
Native Plants
There are many benefits to using native plants in manmade landscapes. Native
plants are those that have evolved naturally in an area, in our case Nantucket, with its
own unique setting, history, and conditions. Specifically, native plants refer to plants that
were growing here before humans introduced plants from distant places. Native plants
consist of plant species and communities adapted to similar soil, moisture, and climate
conditions. The native plants we have on Nantucket today are also influenced by the
impact of historical land uses including grazing and farming practices, as well as the
relatively recent introduction and spread of invasive plant species.
57
One of the primary benefits of using native plants is that once established, they
require no fertilization or irrigation. Other benefits are winter hardiness, drought
tolerance, and for most species, increased pest and disease resistance.
Naturalized Plant Communities
Over time, plants introduced from around the world have adapted to Nantucket’s
conditions, and become naturalized. Some of these are common in natural areas and
many would mistake them as natives. Examples of naturalized plants are Rosa rugosa,
found in stands on sand dunes, most all of the pines growing on the island, and common
roadside weeds or wildflowers, such as Queen Anne’s lace and common daisies. Some
introduced plants have great competitive advantage over native plants and are considered
exotic invasives. A few examples of exotic invasives on Nantucket are Japanese
Knotweed, Polyganum cuspidatum, which has a bamboo-like appearance and spreads
rapidly forming dense monocultures, Japanese Honeysuckle, Lonicera japonica, one of
the first shrubs to leaf out in the spring and gaining a dominant foothold in more and
more areas of the island, and oriental bitter sweet, Celastrus orientalis, a very aggressive
vine with orange and yellow berries that is unfortunately used for decorating
inadvertently promoting its spread. Exotic invasives tend to be found predominantly on
disturbed lands and old dumping grounds. They are continuing to spread and altering
native plant communities. When preserving naturalized plant communities as part of the
landscape, one should remove exotic invasives, where possible, to encourage native plant
communities.
As with all plant communities, naturally occurring vegetation continues to change
over time. An understanding of what factors influence past, present and future changes is
fundamental to implementing management decisions for natural areas if incorporated as
part of the manmade landscape. Preserving an area of undisturbed plant communities or
planting with native plant species are two very distinct naturalistic style practices.
When a nursery-grown native plant is planted in an amended garden soil, it will
perform differently from the same native species existing in Nantucket’s natural soil
conditions. One of the keys to successful use of native plants is to replicate the natural
conditions the native plant grows in. The second is to carefully monitor the transition
from nursery-grown plant to established landscape plant. The seasonal timing of planting
and the size of the plant are contributing factors to the successful use of native plants.
The ease or difficulty of establishment varies species to species. The third factor in the
successful use of native plants, once established or preserved, is to manage them
appropriately, which means hardly at all. It should not need mentioning but one should
source native plants from commercial nurseries, several Nantucket ones stock them, and
not by “rustling” them from our conservation lands.
As mentioned in Section 3. ‘Site Assessment and Planning,’ it is common for
building construction practice in rural parts of the island to disturb more area than will be
necessary for a well-planned manmade landscape. Those extra areas, between the
designed functional landscape, and undisturbed land beyond, are opportunities to
58
incorporate alternative naturalistic landscape practices. The primary benefit, as it relates
to the BMP, is the overall reduction of fertilizer use, by applying alternative plantings
that require no fertilizers. A corollary benefit is the aesthetic softening of edges between
the closer, ‘tamed’ landscape, and the surrounding ‘wild’ natural areas beyond.
Tall Grass Meadows
One recommended practice for restoring disturbed land is to plant areas with
natural grass lands, which are primarily based on warm-season species of grass. Sand-
plain grassland, one of Nantucket’s special natural plant communities, is an excellent
model for a grassland. Little bluestem, Schizachyrium scoparius, switchgrass, Panicum
virgatum, and Pennsylvania sedge, Carex pennsylvanica, are three native-grass species
that work well for meadow planting. It is important to use existing Nantucket soil, not to
fertilize, and only to water during extreme drought periods when a grassland is being
established. Amended soil, fertilizer, or added irrigation will encourage competitive
weed growth and out-compete native grasses that are adapted to our soils and climate. In
time, with selective hand removal of unwanted species that may come in, and once or
twice a year mowing (at a recommended height of 3-4 inches), a grassland will mature
and even incorporate other native species that grow from seed found in native soil and
surrounding vegetation. The land above and around a newly installed or repaired septic
system leach area is a recommended location for establishing a grassland.
Using Native Trees and Shrubs
Shrub buffers, whether of newly planted or of preserved existing vegetation, are
another example of naturalistic style practice, that when used, reduce fertilizer inputs. If
a preserved shrub thicket is included as an edge planting or integrated part of a manmade
landscape, it requires no fertilizer or water. Unlike some hedge materials such as privet,
the naturalistic planting may require little maintenance or pruning. The following are
some recommended native shrubs and trees for buffer plantings, readily available in local
nurseries. Cultivars and varieties of many native species have been selected or developed
for landscape use.
Table 4.
Nantucket Native Shrubs and Trees
Shrubs: Bayberry (Myrica pennsylvanica)
Viburnum (Viburnum dentatum)
Beach plum (Prunus maritime)
Inkberry (Ilex glabra)
Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)
Sweet pepperbush (Clethra alnifolia)
Highbush Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum)
Trees: American Holly (Ilex opaca)
Red maple (Acer rubrum)
59
Sassafras (Sassafras albidum)
Tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica)
American Beech (Fagus grandifolia)
Native plants and plant communities, when planted and established correctly, do not
require fertilizers or irrigation, thus reducing potential nutrient leaching into our water.
Section 13. Bibliography
Bormann, F. Herbert., Diana Balmori, Gordon T. Geballe. 2001. Redesigning the
American Lawn. Yale University Press.
Apfelbaum, Steven I. and Alan W. Haney. Restoring Ecological Health to Your
Land.
Tongway, David J., John A. Ludwig. 2011. Restoring Disturbed Landscapes:
Putting Principles into Practice.
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Appendices
Appendix 1. Soil Maps
The inclusion of the soil map is meant for Nantucket landscapers, amateur and
professional, to see what information is available to them about soils. One should follow
the web links, create an “Area of Interest” that includes your specific property and then
open the pages of information available.
Nantucket County, Massachusetts (MA019)
Map Unit Symbol Map Unit Name Acres in
AOI
Percent of
AOI
1 Water 36.1 1.5%
25A Berryland Variant loamy sand, 0 to 3
percent slopes 59.8 2.4%
52A Medisaprists, 0 to 1 percent slopes 76.1 3.1%
55A Medisaprists, sandy surface, 0 to 1
percent slopes 219.2 8.9%
261A Tisbury very fine sandy loam, 0 to 3
percent slopes 0.4 0.0%
288A Riverhead sandy loam, 0 to 3 percent
slopes 9.5 0.4%
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Nantucket County, Massachusetts (MA019)
Map Unit Symbol Map Unit Name Acres in
AOI
Percent of
AOI
293B Riverhead-Nantucket complex, 3 to 8
percent slopes 20.8 0.8%
294A Evesboro sand, 0 to 3 percent slopes 863.6 35.2%
294B Evesboro sand, 3 to 8 percent slopes 507.1 20.7%
294C Evesboro sand, 8 to 15 percent slopes 101.1 4.1%
295A Klej and Pompton soils, 0 to 3
percent slopes 40.0 1.6%
479B Plymouth-Evesboro complex, 3 to 8
percent slopes 215.3 8.8%
479C Plymouth-Evesboro complex, 8 to 15
percent slopes 30.0 1.2%
479D Plymouth-Evesboro complex, 15 to
25 percent slopes 265.3 10.8%
600 Pits 2.0 0.1%
652 Dumps 8.7 0.4%
Totals for Area of
Interest 2,455.0 100.0%
This map can be recreated at http://websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov.
62
Appendix 2. Recommended Soil Testing Laboratories
A & L Analytical Laboratories, Inc., 2790 Whitten Road, Memphis, TN
38133
Phone 800 -264-4522; 901-213-2400
Fax 901-213-2440
http://www.al-labs.com/
UMass Soil Testing
Soil and Plant Tissue Testing Laboratory, West Experiment Station
682 North Pleasant St., University of Massachusetts
Amherst, MA 01003
http://www.umass.edu/soiltest
63
Appendix 3. Sources and Types of Fertilizer
3. A. 1. Sources and Types of Fast-Release Nitrogen Fertilizer
Urea. Urea is the most widely used of all fertilizers. It is fast release or quickly
available, unless treated or chemically altered to make it slow release (SRN). It is
the main constituent of synthetic SRN products. Microbial activity is initially
required for breakdown of nitrogen, and thereafter water. Urea is susceptible to
leaching if improperly used or used in excess of the rate guidelines in Section 8.
Ammonium sulfate. Ammonium sulfate is usually stated on a fertilizer label as percent
ammoniac nitrogen as derived from ammonium sulfate. Though it is fast release, it does
have the ability to release nitrogen in cooler soil temperatures compared to urea and other
types of nitrogen. Also, since the N-form, NH4+ (ammonium) carries a positive charge,
and clays and humus carry a negative charge, it is less likely to leach to ground water
under some conditions. Sandy soils have a neutral to weakly negative charge, so
ammonium sulfate is still prone to leaching if used at higher rates or when applications
are poorly timed. On Nantucket sandy soils, especially those low in organic matter,
ammonium sulfate is susceptible to leaching if improperly used or used in excess of the
rate guidelines in Section 8.
Potassium nitrate – Potassium nitrate is a water-soluble, fast-release nitrogen source.
This can be identified on a fertilizer label as percent nitrate derived from potassium
nitrate. Because the N in potassium nitrate is already in nitrate form, it is immediately
available for plant uptake, which benefits turfgrass and ornamental plants. However,
being in the nitrate form also means that it is susceptible to leaching if improperly
applied. Potassium nitrate is very susceptible to leaching if improperly used or used in
excess of the recommended rates in Section 8.
Ammonium nitrate. Ammonium nitrate is a water-soluble, fast-release nitrogen source,
already in both nitrate and ammonium form. It is expressed largely as percent nitrate,
with some ammoniac nitrogen as well. It is typically a constituent of a larger blend of
fertilizer, included with slow-release nitrogen (SRN). Ammonium nitrate alone is very
difficult to purchase, and used mainly in agricultural applications. Ammonium nitrate is
very susceptible to leaching if improperly used or used in excess of the rate guidelines in
Section 8.
3. A. 2. Sources and Types of Slow-Release Nitrogen Fertilizers
Slowly available nitrogen sources are divided into the following three groups based on
how their nitrogen is released; each of these groups contains a number of individual
substances (listed) making the entire listing of slow-release nitrogen fertilizers very large.
Group I. Carbon-containing compounds are dependent on microbial decomposition for
nitrogen release. Since microbial activity is dependent on soil temperature, these
64
compounds are also temperature dependent, and therefore, nitrogen release should not be
expected until soil temperatures warm up. It is noted that the maximum nutrient release
occurs when soil temperatures are equal to or greater than 55◦F, pH is around 6.5, and
there is adequate moisture present; dry soils inhibit release. Within this group, there are
two basic types of compounds; natural organic and ureaformaldehydes (UF) – sometimes
referred to as synthetic organics. Because these UF’s contain carbon in their structure,
they are termed ‘organic’ in a scientific sense. But for the purposes of the Nantucket
BMP, they are synthetic fertilizers and are not ‘organic’ in the ways the term is widely
used.
1. Natural Organics – The nitrogen in natural organic fertilizers is derived from animal
and plant by-products. Sewage based products are also used as natural organic
fertilizers, though their use on Nantucket is discouraged because of heavy metal
content. The majority of these sources allow for the slow release, or moderately-slow
release, of nitrogen. However, there are sources that are considered fast release.
Different natural organic nitrogen sources are explained further below, and are
distinguished by their nitrogen release rate. It is noted that the sources based on
animal protein may be attractive to meat eaters such as dogs, cats, skunks, and other
foraging animals. These are only a handful of the many organic sources of nitrogen
that are available for use as fertilizers.
Fast-release organic nitrogen sources
o Blood meal – Derived from animal blood that is cooked, dried, and ground. It
is a quickly available source of nitrogen. It is one of the highest non-synthetic
sources of nitrogen and does have burn potential to the plant if used
improperly. Though quick release, it does aid in balancing the carbon-nitrogen
ratio, which is essential in building the soil. Blood meal also contains low
amounts of phosphorus and potassium. It also serves as a good source of iron,
a micronutrient necessary for plant health.
o Meat meal – Meat meal is an organic, fast release source of nitrogen that is
derived from the tissue of animals. Meat meal also contains phosphorus and
iron.
o Fish meal – Fish meal is an organic, fast release source of nitrogen derived
from fish tissue. Fish meal also contains phosphorus and potassium.
o Seaweed (Kelp Powder and Liquid Kelp) – Seaweed derived kelp powder and
liquid kelp contain fast release N,P, and K, in small amounts, and
micronutrients in high amounts. Liquid kelp is typically used in foliar
applications.
Moderate to slow release organic nitrogen sources
65
o Fish meal – Fish meal is an organic, medium release source of nitrogen
derived from fish tissue. Fish meal also contains phosphorus and potassium.
o Fish emulsion – Fish emulsion is an organic, medium to slow release source
of nitrogen derived from fish waste. Emulsions are soluble, liquid fertilizers
that are processed by heat and acid. They contain micronutrients as well.
o Fish hydrolyzate – Fish hydrolyzate is an organic, medium to slow release
source of nitrogen derived from fish waste. Hydrolyzed liquid fish uses
enzymes to digest the nutrients from fish instead of using heat and acid,
allowing more vitamins, micronutrients, and proteins to be retained.
Hydrolyzed fish contains phosphorus and potassium.
o Alfalfa meal – Alfalfa meal is an organic, medium to slow release nitrogen
source that is derived from alfalfa. It contains phosphorus and potassium, as
well as bio-stimulants. Alfalfa meal is frequently used to increase organic
matter in the soil, but because it contains N-P-K it is considered a fertilizer as
well.
o Crab meal – Crab meal is derived from the tissue of crabs and contains
medium to slow release nitrogen. It also contains phosphorus, potassium, and
calcium.
Slow to very-slow release organic nitrogen sources
o Bone meal – Bone meal is derived from the bones of poultry, beef, or pork
and has been sterilized with intense heat. The actual amount of nitrogen is
low, and bone meal is used more often as a source of phosphorus. If used as a
nitrogen source, it is imperative to take into account the amount of phosphorus
in bone meal. When using bone meal, the amount of phosphorus should be
applied based on a soil test identified deficiency and recommendation.
o Feather meal – Feather meal is an organic, slow release source of nitrogen that
is derived from poultry waste. Feather meal can be high in nitrogen, but is
slow to very slow in its release.
o Seaweed (Kelp Meal) – Nitrogen derived from kelp meal is slow release. This
type of seaweed has very little N-P-K and is more valuable for micronutrient
content.
o Cottonseed meal – Cottonseed meal is derived from cottonseed. Cottonseed
meal also contains phosphorus and potassium, with a typical analysis of 6-2-2.
Approximately 85% of its nitrogen is hot-water insoluble (HWIN) or slow
release.
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For discussions related to the Nantucket BMP, composts are considered to be
fertilizer. Usually, compost is applied to build the soil and provide benefits other than
fertilizer. But composts can contain varying amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and
potassium, though typically low. The actual analysis of N-P-K varies with the many
different sources of compost, and can even vary from batch to batch. Because of the
differing sources and high variability of N-P-K amounts, compost is not listed above.
Generally, composts are slow to release lower amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus, but
testing of the compost should be conducted to more accurately account for the actual
amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus applied.
2. Ureaformaldehyde (UF) fertilizers – UF fertilizers are synthetically derived, and are
further divided into subgroups according to their release rates. For the purpose of
distinguishing among slow-release nitrogen sources, it should be known that not all
UF fertilizers are created equal – as explained below:
Fraction I – Cold-Water Soluble Nitrogen (CWSN) – CWSN nitrogen release is
similar to fast-release nitrogen sources. Examples of CWSN compounds include
shorter-chain methylene ureas. For the purposes of the Nantucket BMP, products
that qualify as CWSN are considered fast-release nitrogen.
Fraction II – Cold Water Insoluble Nitrogen (CWIN) – CWIN nitrogen releases
over several weeks. Intermediate-chain methylene ureas make up the majority of
CWIN compounds.
Fraction III – Hot-Water Insoluble Nitrogen (HWIN) – HWIN release of nitrogen
is very slow release, over months and even years. Nitrogen is in the form of long-
chain methylene ureas.
Below are two examples of fertilizers containing these different ‘fractions’. Please note
that they are referenced by their brand name because that is how they are often identified
by practitioners. This use of names is not an endorsement of any particular product.
o Nutralene – Nutralene is a mix of fast release nitrogen, slow release nitrogen,
and methylene urea. Nutralene depends on temperature, microbial activity,
and soil moisture to release the SRN portion of its product. Release is divided
into thirds over a 16-week period. The first 6 weeks is mainly dependent on
water soluble nitrogen, followed by slowly available nitrogen (SRN) in weeks
5-10, and finally the water insoluble component (WIN) in weeks 10-16.
o Nitroform – Nitroform is similar to Nutralene, in that it contains WSN, SRN,
and WIN, but the WIN is in much greater percentage than Nutralene. The
water soluble component is small, and releases over the first four weeks,
followed by the SRN through weeks 4-8. Finally, the WIN component
releases in weeks 8-22.
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Group II. Carbon-containing compounds that have a low solubility in water. Nitrogen is
released by the slow dissolution through water of the fertilizer particle. IBDU
(Isobutylidene diurea) falls within this group. Group II fertilizers can release N in cooler
soils than Group I..
IBDU – Isobutylidene diurea – IBDU nitrogen releases through a process called
slow hydrolysis. The product has a lower solubility in water that allows for the
controlled release of nitrogen. IBDU is the slow-release component in many
products, and the percentages of slow release can vary from 25 percent to nearly
90 percent of total nitrogen. The remaining percentage is fast-release nitrogen,
therefore it is important to ensure that no more than 0.25 lbs of N are in quick
release form, dependent on the time of year applied, and in accordance with the
table in Section 8.
Group III – These compounds are water soluble, but coated with a physical barrier of
some type that delays nitrogen release. Examples of these barriers include polymer,
plastic, and sulfur coatings. A discussion of each is below(This use of names is not an
endorsement of any particular product):
Polymer Coated Urea – Examples of Polymer Coated Urea are Polyon and
Osmocote. Polyon’s typical nitrogen source is urea, which is encapsulated with a
polymer membrane that diffuses nitrogen slowly by soil temperature. It is not
dependent on moisture or microbial activity for nitrogen breakdown. The
percentage of slow-release nitrogen (SRN) in their products varies, but can be as
high as 100% of total nitrogen dependent on the analysis chosen. Osmocote is
sealed with a plastic/polymer coating. The release of nitrogen is largely
dependent on temperature, and to a lesser degree water. The release rate of
nitrogen is mainly determined by the thickness of the plastic, the thicker the
coating, the longer the release time.
Sulfur Coated Ureas (SCU) – SCU’s vary according to their coating strength, and
are designed to slowly break down with water. The best types of SCU’s have
coatings around the fertilizer particles that have no holes or cracks in the coating,
allowing for a more controlled-release of nitrogen. The cheaper and weaker types
of SCU are easily broken by mower traffic and have holes and cracks that allow
for a more rapid release of nitrogen. Wax sealants are sometimes used to combat
the quick break down of the coating. When a wax sealant is used, microbial
activity must aid in the break down in addition to hydrolysis. When considering
which SCU product to use, products with stronger coatings should be chosen.
3. B. Sources and Types of Phosphorus Fertilizer
Since most organic fertilizers contain phosphorus in addition to nitrogen, many
sources of phosphorus are detailed in the prior category with nitrogen. Additional
sources of organic and synthetic phosphorus are detailed below:
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Additional organic sources of phosphorus
o Mushroom compost – Mushroom compost is derived from composted mushroom
waste, often horse manure appropriately composted and aged, and has a very high
phosphorus content. Its release time is slow, and though it contains nitrogen, the
content is very low.
o Bat guano – Bat guano is a good source of phosphorus, and also contains nitrogen
and potassium. Its nitrogen release rate is fast to medium, so consideration of
nitrogen rates and timing must be accounted for. Bat guano when used, is
preferably included as part of a larger, slower release blend.
o Worm castings – Beyond being a source of phosphorus, worm castings are
excellent in building the soil by providing organic matter. Worm castings also
contain small amounts of nitrogen and potassium.
o Soft rock phosphates – Though not truly organic, soft rock phosphates are
naturally derived from mining clay particles with natural phosphate. Soft rock
phosphates are slow to very slow to breakdown. Dependent on sources, rock
phosphates can correct phosphorus deficiencies for 3-12 years. They also contain
calcium.
Synthetic sources of phosphorus
o Monoammonium phosphate (MAP) – MAP is a fast release source of phosphate,
MAP also contains fast release nitrogen. As with other phosphorus sources that
include nitrogen, if high phosphate corrections are necessary, the amount of
nitrogen will increase as well. Nitrogen rates and timing must be accounted for
when applying MAP. MAP’s typical analysis is 11-52-0. Since this is a quick-
release product, no more than 0.25 lbs of N/1000 sq ft can be applied at one time.
With the typical analysis of 11-52-0, no more than 2.25 lbs of product per 1000 sq
ft can be applied. This rate would allow still allow for over 1 lb. of phosphate,
and 0.5 lb of actual phosphorus.
o Diammonium phosphate (DAP) – DAP is a fast release source of phosphate
which also contains fats release nitrogen. Similar to MAP because of its nitrogen
content, caution should be taken if the purpose of using DAP is for correcting a
phosphorus deficiency based on the results of a soil test. Its nitrogen release rate
is fast, so consideration of nitrogen rates and timing must be accounted for. Dap’s
typical analysis is 18-56-0. Since this is a quick-release product, no more than
0.25 lbs of N can be applied at one time. With the typical analysis of 18-56-0, no
more than 1.4 lbs of product per 1000 sq ft can be applied. This rate would allow
for 0.78 lb of phosphate and 0.34 lb of actual phosphorus.
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o Monopotassium phosphate (MKP) – MKP is a fast release source of phosphate
and potassium. It contains no nitrogen, and is often used for foliar applications.
MKP’s typical analysis is 0-52-34.
o Triple super phosphate – Triple super phosphate is a fast release synthetic source
of phosphate, and popular in greenhouse and garden uses. As with the above
sources with high phosphate contents, following recommendations from a soil test
identified deficiency is imperative for proper application.
3. C. Sources and Types of Potassium Fertilizer
Greensand. Greensand is naturally derived from the deposits of minerals that were
once part of the ocean floor. Greensand typically contains only potassium, but can
sometimes contain small amounts of phosphorus.
Sulfate of potash. Sulfate of potash is a naturally occurring mineral that is mined and
an excellent source for addressing potassium deficiencies. It also contains sulfur, an
element necessary for plant nutrition. It has a low burn potential.
Langbeinite. Langbeinite is a naturally occurring mineral containing potassium that is
mined from evaporated seawater. It also contains sulfur and magnesium, both
required nutrients for plant nutrition. Langbeinite is often referred to as Sul-Po-Mag.
Muriate of potash. Muriate of potash is a synthetic source of potassium that is popular
in fertilizer blends due to its low cost of manufacturing. However, muriate of potash
contains chlorine, which may negatively impact soil microbial populations. It also
has a high burn potential on turfgrass. The use of muriate of potash is not
recommended on Nantucket.
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Appendix 4. Turfgrass Varieties and Cultivars Suitable for Nantucket
Kentucky Blue Grass. Kentucky blue grass has a fine-to-medium leaf texture and is dark
green in color. Its growth habit is to spread via rhizomes making it a popular choice for
sod farming. It has the ability to recover fairly easily from damage. Tolerance is high for
wear and cold temperature, but moderate for heat and drought. This grass becomes semi-
dormant very quickly under hot and dry conditions. It does recover quickly once cooler
temperatures with adequate moisture return. Kentucky bluegrass is best grown in well-
drained, sunny areas although a few cultivars will tolerate some shade. It requires higher
amounts of nitrogen (2-3lb.N/1000sq. ft. annually ) than some other cool-season grasses
and may produce a significant amount of thatch if over-fertilized or over-watered.
Kentucky bluegrass can be susceptible to diseases such as leaf spot, dollar spot, ring spot
and summer patch. Some newer cultivars show some disease resistance.
Advantages- Fast recovery from wear or abuse,
Dense turf,
Excellent cold tolerance,
Dark green color.
Disadvantages- Poor shade tolerance,
Requires regular watering to maintain quality.
Perennial Ryegrass. Perennial ryegrass has a fine-to-medium leaf texture and tends to be
dark green in color. It germinates rapidly and is quick to establish, making it suitable for
over-seeding. It is competitive with other grasses, however, and is used either alone or in
combinations with Kentucky bluegrass or fine fescues. Use no more than 20 percent
perennial ryegrass when mixing with other grass species. It is wear and heat tolerant, but
will not tolerate shade well. Perennial ryegrass does best on well-drained soils with
moderate fertility. The nitrogen requirement for perennial ryegrass is approximately 2-
3lb.N/1000sq.ft. annually, with little thatch accumulation. Perennial ryegrass is
susceptible to diseases such as brown patch, Pythium blight, dollar spot, red thread, and
rust. Several cultivars contain beneficial fungal endophytes, which provide some disease
and insect resistance.
Advantages- Fast establishment,
Good wear tolerance.
Disadvantages- Does not tolerate poorly drained soils,
Requires full sun.
Fine Fescues. Fine fescues (Creeping Red, Chewing, and Hard Fescues) are narrow-
leaved, medium-green to dark-green grasses that can be used alone or in combination
with other grasses. Each species varies somewhat in terms of growth characteristics, but
all are ideal for low-maintenance situations. They are very tolerant of low pH and
fertility, and of drought and shade. Fine fescues become semi-dormant in heat and
drought but recover quickly. These grasses require 1-2lbs.N/1000sq.ft. with minimal
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production of thatch. Fine fescues are susceptible to leaf spot, red thread and dollar spot.
Endophytically enhanced cultivars have some resistance to dollar spot and insects.
Cultivars without endophytes are highly susceptible to damage from chinch bugs.
Advantages- Tolerates shade,
Requires minimal fertility,
Has low water requirements.
Disadvantages- Susceptible to heat and drought,
Poor wear tolerance and poor recovery rates.
Tall Fescues. Many new “Turf-type” tall-fescue varieties that are finer textured and
darker green are a viable option for lawns. Tall fescue is slow to establish, preferring
temperatures above 70 degrees F for optimal germination. It has only a fair recovery
potential, but it is both drought and heat tolerant. Tall fescues perform best in well-
drained soils in open sunny locations but can withstand moderate shade. Overall, tall
fescues are more shade tolerant than Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass, but less
so than fine fescues. Tall fescue requires 2.5-3lbs.N/1000sq.ft. with minimal
accumulation of thatch. Most cultivars should not be mown at less than 2”. Tall fescue
is susceptible to brown patch, red thread and pythium blight.
Advantages- Some shade tolerance,
Has low water requirements,
Good wear tolerance.
Disadvantages- Not very cold tolerant.
Rough Bluegrass. If shade is an issue on the site, first consider whether turfgrass is
appropriate for the location. It is possible that a shade-tolerant ground cover may be
better able to adapt to shade. If turfgrass is used, rough bluegrass (Poa trivialis) may be a
good choice as part of a mix with other turfgrass species. Rough bluegrass has proven to
be a good alternative for shaded sites, but is rarely used by itself. Rough bluegrass has a
medium leaf texture and tends to have a medium green color. It requires 1-2 lbs.N /1,000
sq.ft. annually. It is typically mown at a 2-3” height, which may be somewhat lower than
needed for other lawn grasses, and adapts well to moist sites. It does not however
tolerate traffic, drought, or heat well.
Advantages - Excellent shade tolerance,
Low fertility requirements.
Disadvantages- Poor wear tolerance,
Poor heat and drought tolerance.
May segregate into clumpy patches.
Bentgrass. Creeping bentgrass has a fine leaf texture and is typically medium green in
color. It is not an appropriate turfgrass for most lawns, but is used on croquet courts, golf
courses, and bocce courts on Nantucket. It can be aggressive, and its growth habit is
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stoloniferous (producing runners), allowing it to recover rapidly from damage. It has
moderate heat, shade, and drought tolerances. Creeping bentgrass is typically mown at
heights between 1/8” and ½”. It does require moderate irrigation and 2-3lb.N/1,000 sq.ft.
Because of its high traffic use, it requires intensive cultural practices.
Advantages - Excellent choice for very low mowing heights,
Good recuperative ability.
Disadvantages- Can produce heavy thatch levels,
Prone to disease.
Requires specialized maintenance to keep up quality.
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Appendix 5. Spreader Calibration: A Step by Step Guide:
Step 1. Calculate the pounds of product necessary to spread. As an example, let’s
assume the decided rate is ½ pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet (0.5 lbs
N/1,000 sq ft). For turfgrass applications, pounds per 1,000 sq ft is the most common
way to describe the rate of fertilizer product, including nitrogen, and other nutrients.
Pounds per acre (lbs/A) is sometimes used, especially with large applications of lime and
compost.
The required amount of product (fertilizer) per 1,000 square feet must be calculated
before applying the fertilizer. This can easily be achieved by knowing both the desired
rate of nitrogen and the fertilizer analysis on the bag as described in Section 6. Using a
hypothetical analysis of 10-0-8 (10 in the analysis = 10% nitrogen) and a desired nitrogen
rate of 0.5lbs N/1,000 sq.ft., we would calculate the pounds of product (fertilizer) needed
per 1,000 sq ft as follows:
Using our desired N rate from above and the percent nitrogen in decimal form allows
us to calculate below the necessary amount of product needed to spread over a lawn, etc.
Now we can calibrate the spreader for the hypothetical fertilizer analysis (formula) of
10-0-8 so as to give an Application Rate of 0.5lb.N/1000sq.ft.
Step 2. Weighing the required material for calibration. Once we have determined that
5 pounds of product (fertilizer) per 1,000 sq ft will be required to achieve our desired rate
of 0.5 lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft, we need to calibrate the spreader. The most precise
way to achieve calibration is to first weigh and load a known amount of fertilizer into the
spreader. A basic rule is to load twice the amount of the desired rate of product; in this
case that would be 10 pounds of fertilizer.
Step 3. Determining spreader swath width of fertilizer for calibration. After
weighing a known amount (10 lbs.) of fertilizer into the spreader hopper, a swath width is
determined by walking at normal speed and engaging the spreader. Measure the width of
the fertilizer thrown from left to right to determine the swath width. Because spreaders
throw slightly less fertilizer on the farthest sides, it is a good practice to overlap swaths
slightly (6-12 inches). Let’s assume that our swath width was 10 feet all the way across,
which is a common width.
Step 4. Setting up calibration course. We now know our swath width (10 feet) and
pounds of product needed per 1,000 sq ft (5) necessary to achieve our desired rate of 0.5
lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft. We now set up a 1,000 sq ft area for calibration. Dividing
1,000 by the 10-foot swath width, we get 100 feet; this is our “run.” Measure out 100
feet being sure to mark the starting and ending points. Set the spreader using the setting
on the bag as a starting point only. Each person using the same spreader walks at a
different pace, each spreader has differing amounts of wear, and each site is different
74
enough to not trust the setting on the bag solely. However, the bag setting for your
desired rate and type of spreader can be a starting point.
Step 5. Walking the calibration course and completion. Begin walking and fertilizing
at a normal pace until reaching the end point. After finishing this calibration course,
empty the remaining fertilizer into the bucket and weigh the material using a scale. If
you still have 5 pounds remaining, your calibration is perfect. If you have too much or
not enough left, adjust the spreader setting, and repeat the calibration using a different
calibration course. This is a very important point – using the same course can effectively
double the amount of fertilizer applied in that area. This is not only harmful to the
turfgrass, but allows for the possibility of leaching and/or runoff. Once proper calibration
has been achieved, do not fertilize the calibration course or courses for the same reason as
above. Of course, you can calibrate on a hard surface that allows for recovery of the
fertilizer.
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Appendix 6. Sample Record Keeping Sheet for Fertilizer Applications
NAME OF APPLICATOR:_____________________________ LICENSE #_________________________
NANTUCKET -
FERTILIZER
RECORD
CUSTOMER:
WEATHER
CONDITIONS:______________________________________________________
LOCATION:
SQ. FT. RATE SP. SETTING
AMT.
PROD.
DATE:
PRODUCT:
PRODUCT:
PRODUCT:
SITE
OBSERVATIONS:__________________________________________________________________________________
Perhaps add:
Area of plants being fertilized: _____________
For Integrated Pest Management: Product also contains _____________ (specify
pesticide)
Total N, P, K added by the end of the season.
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Appendix 7. Examples of Three Turf Fertilizer Management Programs
Contributors: Jonathan Wisentaner; Michael Misurelli; Mark Lucas
An Organic Fertility Program
1st application, late fall of previous season. Apply dolomitic limestone as
indicated by a soil test at rates up to 50 lbs per 1000 sq ft to raise pH and improve
magnesium levels in late fall of the previous season, when possible, as lime takes
up to 6 months to alter pH.
2nd application, spring. As soil temperatures reach 55 degrees F in spring (late
April to mid May) apply natural sulfate of potash (0-0-50) at 1 lb per 1000 sq ft of
actual potassium to improve potassium levels. Apply sulfate of potash, magnesia
at 0.5lb per 1000 sq ft of actual potassium to improve potassium, magnesium and
sulfur. Alternatively, use a dolomitic limestone in the step above to alter
magnesium content if needed. Top dress with compost at a ¼” depth to increase
the soil’s organic matter level and supply a small amount of available nitrogen
and microbiology.
3rd application, June 15. Apply an organic fertilizer blend of 6-0-6, at the rate of 1
lb nitrogen, N, per 1000 sq ft. A typical organic blend of 6-0-6 is made from
sulfate of potash, natural nitrate of soda, peanut meal, feather meal, and
pasteurized poultry litter. 75% of the nitrogen is water insoluble, or slow release.
4th application, July 15. Apply compost tea to supply beneficial micro-organisms,
micro elements, and less than 0.1 lb nitrogen per 1000 sq ft.
5th application, Aug 15. Apply compost tea to supply beneficial micro-organisms,
micro elements and less than 0.1 lb of nitrogen per 1000 sq ft.
6th application, Sept 1. Top dress with compost at a ¼” depth to increase the soil’s
organic matter level and supply a small amount of available nitrogen (est. 0.25 lb
per 1000 sq ft) and microbiology. Combine this application with aeration and
over seeding to increase turf density. If over seeding is practiced, some additional
nutrition should be applied.
7th application, Sept 15. Apply the 6-0-6 organic blend, at a rate of 1 lb of
nitrogen per 1000 sq ft. This 6-0-6 blend is normally made from sulfate of
potash, natural nitrate of soda, peanut meal, feather meal and pasteurized poultry
litter. 75% of the nitrogen is water insoluble, or slow release.
8th application, October 1. If the need is indicated by a soil test, apply natural
sulfate of potash (0-0-50) at a rate of 1 lb K per 1000 sq ft of actual potassium to
improve potassium levels.
Totals for the season:
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Nitrogen- 2.75 lb per 1000 sq ft,
Phosphorus- Minimal if low-phosphorus compost used,
Potassium- 4.5 lb per 1000 sq ft,
Sulfur- 0.5 lb per 1000 sq ft,
Magnesium- 0.5 lb per 1000 sq ft.
A Synthetic Turf Fertilizer Program
The following program consists of products that contain synthetic sources of nitrogen.
1st application, late fall of previous season. Application of dolomitic limestone at
50 lbs per1000 sq ft to raise pH and improve magnesium levels in late fall of the
previous season, if possible, as lime takes up to 6 months to alter pH
2nd Application, May 15th.. Apply 30-0-7 Polyon with 60% slow-release nitrogen
at a rate of 1 lb actual N per thousand sq ft.
3rd Application, July 1. Apply (15-0-8) Nature Safe at a rate of 1 lb of actual N
per 1000 sq ft.
4th Application, August 15th. Apply a synthetic fertilizer (29-0-10) with 70 %
slow-release Nitrogen at the rate of 1 lb of actual N per 1000 sq ft.
5th Application, October 1st. Use (15-0-8) Nature Safe and apply at the rate of 0.5
lb of actual N per 1000 sq ft.
Totals for the season:
Nitrogen – 3.25 lbs. per 1,000 sq ft, 74% of which is slow release and 47%
organic,
Phosphorus – 0.15 lbs. of actual phosphorus per 1,000 sq ft,
Potassium – 4.65 lbs. of actual potassium per 1,000 sq ft.
Hybrid fertilizer program – Spoon feeding
The following program consists of products that contain both organic and
synthetic sources of nitrogen. The assumption is that phosphorus levels are normal, as
indicated by a soil test above, and that magnesium and potassium are deficient. Some of
these products below are ‘bridge products’ – which contain both organic and synthetic
materials. This program emphasizes the spoon feeding of nitrogen.
1st application. May 14th – Apply Contec DG, 6-0-12, 0.24 lb. of nitrogen per
1,000 sq.ft., 100% quick release. Also contains manganese sulfate (which will
provide enhanced green color similar to iron sulfate) and magnesium sulfate to
increase magnesium levels. This product allows for 4 lbs. of product to be spread
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2nd application. June 4th – Apply SeaBlend, 12-4-5, 0.48 lb. of nitrogen per 1,000
sq.ft., 50% slow release. SeaBlend is a bridge product that is 50% organic and
50% synthetic. Urea and methylene urea (slow release) make up the synthetic
portion of this product. Organic sources of nitrogen include kelp meal, fish meal,
crab meal, alfalfa meal, poultry meal, and blood meal. These sources include
quickly available and slow-release sources of nitrogen. A small amount of
phosphorus is included in this product. Also contains ferrous sulfate for color and
magnesium sulfate to increase magnesium levels.
3rd application. July 2nd – Apply SeaBlend, 12-4-5, 0.48 lb. of nitrogen per 1,000
sq.ft., 50% slow release.
4th application. August 6th – Apply SeaBlend, 12-4-5, 0.48 lb. of nitrogen per
1,000 sq.ft., 50% slow release.
5th application. September 3rd – Apply Contec DG, 6-0-12, 0.24 lb. of nitrogen
per 1, 000 sq.ft., 100% quick release.
6th application. September 24th – Apply Contec DG, 6-0-12, 0.24 lb. of nitrogen
per 1, 000 sq.ft., 100% quick release.
Totals for season:
Nitrogen – 2.16 lbs. per 1,000 sq.ft., 33% of which is slow release, 33% organic (also
slow release).
Phosphorus – 0.21 lbs. of actual phosphorus per 1,000 sq.ft. (0.48 lbs. in phosphate
form).
Potassium – 0.50 lbs. of actual potassium per 1,000 sq.ft. (0.60 lbs in potash form).
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Appendix 8. List of Common Documents
The starting point for the Article 68 Work Group was the tremendous amount of
technical and legal material that had been assembled by others who were concerned for
the quality of their ground and surface waters. These documents were collected into a
file of common documents, which is reproduced here both to credit those who came
before the Article 68 Work Group and to archive our beginning.
ARTICLE 68 WORK GROUP
The Fertilizer Committee
REFERENCE LIST OF COMMON DOCUMENTS
As of June 30, 2010
Compiled by Lee W. Saperstein
Documents Providing Authority
Massachusetts, Commonwealth of, Department of Environmental Protection (DEP),
“Nonpoint Pollution Source (NPS) Management Plan,” Found on May 16, 2010 at URL:
www.mass.gov/dep/water/resources/nonpoint.htm.
The plan itself is hot linked from this menu page and can be downloaded as a
Word or PDF document. In the Executive Summary, page 12, it says that a DEP
objective is to assist "communities in drafting river protection bylaws and
ordinances."
Massachusetts, Commonwealth of, Department of Environmental Protection (DEP),
Water, Wastewater, & Wetlands, “Coastal Resources & Estuaries,” A web page with
links to explanations on the Massachusetts Estuaries Project (MEP) and reports published
or planned; found on May 16, 2010, at URL:
http://www.mass.gov/dep/water/resources/coastalr.htm#reports. The web page for “What
are Estuaries?,” http://www.mass.gov/dep/water/resources/brochure.htm, explains why
nitrogen loading is a problem for estuaries and then states, as part of the suggestions for a
solution, that “including limiting use of lawn fertilizers” may be necessary.
Massachusetts, Commonwealth of, Executive Office of Energy and Environmental
Affairs, Nantucket Harbor Embayment System, Total Maximum Daily Loads for Total
Nitrogen, Report # 97-TMDL-2 Control #249.0, 32 pages, January 28, 2009. Found on
May 16, 2010, at URL: http://www.mass.gov/dep/water/resources/nantuckt.doc.
This final report on the quality of water in Nantucket Harbor is the most
quantitatively definitive on nitrogen (nutrient) loading. It is part of a series of
reports that comprise the Massachusetts Estuaries Project (q.v.).
Nantucket, Town of, Annual Town Meeting, April 5-7, 2010, Warrant Article 68, found
on May 16, 2010, at URL: http://www.nantucket-
ma.gov/Pages/NantucketMA_TownMeeting/2010atm/2010ATMwarrantFCmotionsFINA
L.pdf.
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This is the Article as proposed by the Board of Selectmen on behalf of the Harbor
Plan Implementation Committee (HPIC). It was amended substantially on the
floor of the ATM whereby the Town removed most of the technical language of
the Article and left the request that the Town write a Home-Rule Petition for the
control of fertilizer with the intent of presenting it to the Commonwealth in time
for the next legislative session of the General Court. As amended and passed
(ATM 10 ART 68 Fert HR(2).doc), this article provides the foundation for the
Work Group.
Nantucket, Town of, The Nantucket and Madaket Harbors Plan Review Committee
and the Department of Marine and Coastal Resources, Nantucket & Madaket Harbors
Action Plan, 204 pages, May 2009 (As approved by the Secretary of the Massachusetts
Executive Office of Energy and Environmental Affairs, December 21, 2009). Found on
May 16, 2010, at URL: http://www.nantucketharborplan.com/.
In the letter of approval (12 pages, included as a preface to the Plan), the
Secretary listed a number of federal policy principles to which adherence should
be maintained. He said, “The federally-approved CZM Program Plan establishes
20 enforceable program policies and 9 management principles which embody
coastal policy for the Commonwealth of Massachusetts.” Relevant to the
purposes of the Work Group is this quotation,
“• Water Quality Policy #2: Ensure that non-point pollution controls
promote the attainment of state surface water quality standards in the
coastal zone.”
The section of the 2009 Harbor Plan that is relevant to the Work Group is Section
2.2, “Water Quality,” p. 18 et seq.
Ordinances from other Jurisdictions that Control Fertilizer Use
Dane, County of, Wisconsin, State of, Ordinances, “Establishing Regulations for Lawn
Fertilizer and Coal Tar Sealcoat Products Application and Sale,” Chapter 80; found on
May 19, 2010, at URL:
http://danedocs.countyofdane.com/webdocs/pdf/ordinances/ord080.pdf.
Minnesota, State of, Department of Agriculture (MDA), “Phosphorus Lawn Fertilizer
Law, “ a web brochure, 3 pages; found on May 19, 2010, at URL:
http://www.mda.state.mn.us/phoslaw. It provides a link to Chapter 18C of the
Minnesota State Statutes, “Minnesota’s Fertilizer, Soil Amendment, and Plant
Amendment Law” at
https://www.revisor.mn.gov/revisor/pages/statute/statute_chapter_toc.php?year=2006&ch
apter=18C.
New Jersey, State of, Department of Environmental Protection, Division of Water
Quality, Bureau of Nonpoint Pollution Control,
http://www.state.nj.us/dep/dwq/bnpc_home.htm, provides information about nonpoint
pollution sources including a fertilizer “tip” card:
http://www.state.nj.us/dep/dwq/pdf/tipcard_fertilizerfinal.pdf.
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New Jersey, State of, Department of Environmental Protection, “CleanWaterNJ,”
provides advice to individuals and home owners, such as this page on gardening:
http://www.cleanwaternj.org/garden.html.
New Jersey, State of, Department of Environmental Protection, Division of Watershed
Management, “Rules and Guidance,” http://www.nj.gov/dep/watershedmgt/rules.htm,
“Fertilizer Application Model Ordinance,”
http://www.nj.gov/dep/watershedmgt/DOCS/TMDL/Fertilizer%20Application%20Model
%20Ordinance.pdf.
Sanibel, City of, Florida, State of, “Welcome to Sanibel’s Fertilizer Information
Website,” http://www.sanibelh2omatters.com/fertilizer/; includes links to their fertilizer
control ordinance and their various educational, licensing, and outreach efforts.
Suffolk, County of, New York, State of, Department of Environment and Energy,
“Suffolk County Fertilizer Reduction Initiative,” a web brochure found on May 19, 2010,
at URL: http://www.suffolkcountyny.gov/departments/EnvironmentandEnergy/fri.aspx.
This web site has links to their web page for “Healthy Lawns/Clean Water” at
http://suffolkcountyny.gov/healthylawns/ and to their local law referenced separately
below.
Suffolk, County of, New York, State of, “Local Law No. 41-2007, Suffolk County, New
York: A Local Law to Reduce Nitrogen Pollution by Reducing Use of Fertilizer in
Suffolk County; “ found on May 19, 2010, at URL:
http://legis.suffolkcountyny.gov/resos2007/i2117-07.htm.
Westchester, County of, New York, State of, “Article XXVI, Chapter 863, Laws of
Westchester County, Restrictions on the Application and Sale of Lawn Fertilizer within
the County of Westchester;” 863-1301 to 863-1309, found on May 19, 2010, at URL:
http://www.westchestergov.com/pdfs/ENVFACIL_2008LawnFertilizerLaw.pdf.
Westchester, County of, New York, State of, “Phosphorus Fertilizer Ban,” a web
brochure found on May 19, 2010, at URL:
http://www.westchestergov.com/printerfriendly/environment_fertilizerban.htm.
Documents that Further Define the Problem and/or Give Solutions
Nantucket Landscape Association, et al., “Best Management Practice for Turf, Tree, and
shrub Fertilization on Nantucket Island,” 18 pages, February, 2003.
United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), Natural Resources Conservation
Service, (NRCS), "Core 4. Conservation Practices Training Guide: The Common Sense
Approach to Natural Resource Conservation," Part II. "Nutrient Management." 395
pages, August 1999. Found on May 16, 2010, at URL:
http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/technical/ECS/agronomy/core4.pdf.
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The technical reference section of the NRCS is immense. The Electronic Field
Office Technical Guide is accessed by individual location so as to give the best
reference for a particular locality. Its menu provides links to all resource
conservation topics. A starting point is http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/technical/efotg/.
USDA, NRCS, National Handbook of Conservation Practices (NHCP), Conservation
Practice Standard, "Nutrient Management," Code 590, 8 pages, August 2006. Found on
May 16, 2010, at URL: http://nrcs.usda.gov/technical/standards/ and then open menu for
national standards and then slide down to nutrient management or go directly to ftp://ftp-
fc.sc.egov.usda.gov/NHQ/practice-standards/standards/590.doc.
The NHCP is the go-to reference for federal guidance on agricultural
conservation: http://www.nrcs.usda.gov/technical/standards/nhcp.html.
United States Environmental Protection Agency, State-EPA Nutrient Innovations Task
Group, "An Urgent Call to Action," August 2009, 170 pages. Found on May 16, 2010,
at URL: http://www.epa.gov/waterscience/criteria/nutrient/nitgreport.pdf.
Background Documents including those Submitted by Members of the Committee and
the Public
Buzzards Bay National Estuaries Program (BBNEP), “Nitrogen Pollution in Buzzards
Bay,” a web page found on May 16, 2010, at URL:
http://www.buzzardsbay.org/nitrogen-pollution.htm, including “Nitrogen Management
Strategies and Tools,” also found on May 16, 2010, at URL:
http://www.buzzardsbay.org/bbpnitro.htm.
Coffin, A, Chair, Committee on Long Pond and Madaket Ditch, “Report of the
Committee,” 24 pages, Voted to be published by Annual Town Meeting of March 22,
1882 , and published on March 28, 1882.
Cole, M. L, et al., “Effects of Watershed Land use on Nitrogen Concentrations and δ15
Nitrogen in Groundwater,” Biogeochemistry, Springer Netherland, Vol. 77, No. 2, page
199-215, Feb 2006.
Horsley Witten Group, “Evaluation of Turfgrass Nitrogen Fertilizer Leaching Rates in
Soils on Cape Cod, Massachusetts,” Private report prepared for MassDEP, 33 pages, June
29, 2009.
Howes, B. L. et al., Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute (WHOI), “Nantucket Harbor
Study: A Quantitative Assessment of the Environmental Health of Nantucket Harbor for
the Development of a Nutrient Management Plan,” Final Report, 50 pages plus un-
paginated tables, figures, references, and appendix, March 1997.
Lehman, J. T. et al., “Evidence for Reduced River Phosphorus Following Implementation
of a Lawn Fertilizer Ordinance,” Lake and Reservoir Management, Taylor and Francis,
London, Vol 25, 9 pages, 2009.
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Massachusetts, Commonwealth of, Department of Environmental Protection (DEP),
Massachusetts Estuaries Project, Howes, B., et al., “Linked Watershed-Embayment
Model to Determine Critical Nitrogen Loading Thresholds for Nantucket Harbor, Town
of Nantucket, Nantucket Island, Massachusetts,” Final Report, 183 pages, November
2006. Found on May 16, 2010, at URL:
http://www.oceanscience.net/estuaries/report/Nantucket/Nantucket_Hbr_MEP_Final.pdf.
Massachusetts, Commonwealth of, Department of Environmental Protection (DEP),
Massachusetts Estuaries Project, Howes, B., et al., “Linked Watershed-Embayment
Model to Determine Critical Nitrogen Loading Thresholds for Sesachacha Pond, Town of
Nantucket, Nantucket Island, Massachusetts,” Final Report, 107 pages, November 2006.
Found on May 16, 2010, at URL:
http://www.oceanscience.net/estuaries/report/Sesachacha/Sesachacha_MEP_Final.pdf.
Nantucket, Town of, Board of Selectmen, Nantucket Harbor Watershed Work Group,
“Report of the Nantucket Harbor Watershed Work Group,” 38 pages, June 1, 2003.
Paper copy only.
Nantucket, Town of, Marine and Coastal Resources Department, Annual Reports on
Water Quality; paper only:
Conant, K. L., “Hummock Pond, Annual Report, 2006,” 26 pages, March 2007;
Conant, K. L., “Hummock Pond, Annual Report, 2007,” 26 pages, March 2008;
Conant, K. L., “Nantucket Harbor Water Quality, Annual Report, 2006,” 39
pages, January 2007;
Conant, K. L., “Nantucket Harbor Water Quality, Annual Report, 2007,” 38
pages, December 2007.
NOFA Organic Land Care Committee, S. Little, Chair, “NOFA Standards for Organic
Land Care: Practices for Design and Maintenance of Ecological Landscapes,” Northeast
Organic Farming Association (NOFA), 4th Edition, 88 pages, April 2009. Found May 16,
2010, at URL:
http://www.organiclandcare.net/sites/default/files/upload/NOFA_Standards_4th_ed_2009
.pdf.
Petrovic, A. M., “Report to the Pleasant Bay Alliance on the Turfgrass
Fertilizer Nitrogen Leaching Rate,” Self published, 11 pages, August 2008. Dr. Petrovic
is with the Cornell University Agriculture Extension Service and has published a series of
research reports on nitrogen in ground water. Suffolk County, NY, referenced above,
relied on his research extensively.
Tomer, M. D. and M. R. Burkart, “Long-Term Effects of Nitrogen Fertilizer Use on
Ground Water Nitrate in Two Small Watersheds.” Journal of Environmental Quality,
Vol. 32, pages2158–2171 (2003).
File: BMP Master Draft 2011-11-06.doc